Compilations of farm-related articles about farming, plants and animals livelihood production, cultural management methods and raising guide for our readers to have little knowledge about what happen living in the rural areas.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
PINEAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE
Pineapple is a tropical fruit that can be planted to any place most suitable for planting. It can survive even during the period of dry ad wet season. It can grow at sea level. They are suited to be planted in a medium elevation. A sandy loam soil and a soil having a slight acidity will do.
Needing thorough land preparation. Pineapple need a culture period of 15 to 24 months from planting to harvest. Poor land preparation will result in high costs for controlling weeds, and how fruit production due to the weeds. For planting materials, pineapple growers used crowns,slips, and suckers. Slips are the best to use for low plant mortality. Crowns needs curing and chemical treatment to avoid high mortality due to butt rot. It is best to segregate different types of planting materials during the planting.
For farmers planting for local consumption 50,000 plants per hectare is the ideal density.
Due to high population densities and the long culture period, the fertilizer requirements of pineapple per average soil fertility as follows: N-400 to 600 kilograms/hectare, P-120 to 200 kilograms/hectare, K-200 to 300 kilograms/hectare. Soil analysis can enable the planter to accurately determine fertilizers requirement.
Used organic fertilizers such as those that are guano-based or manure-based in combination with organic or chemical fertilizers.Most of elements like irons, zinc, manganese and boron can also be applied in foliar spraying. Dry fertilizer application is practical up to the seventh month of growth of plants. As the pineapple plants grow closer to each other, foliar fertilizer application becomes more practical.
Since pineapple is a shallow-rooted plants, high weed population could take away from its soil nutrients and fertilizer, and consequently greatly reduced production by as much as 50 percent. Chemical weed control is a must if the grower can afford it and if chemicals are available.
Although cheap or in terms of labor cost, hand weeding is actually more expensive and less effective in the early stages of crop growth. When weeds like nutsedge are present in the field, chemical control during the first few months of pineapple growth is the most effective and economical weeding method.
For high fruit tonnage per hectare, pineapple should be induced to flower when the plants are 10 to 12 months, or when they reach an average weight of three kilograms per plant in good cultural management.
Five to five-and-a half months after using flower inducer, pineapple starts ripening. It could enable the grower to attain 80 to 95 percent recovery for the first harvest.
The amount of sunlight received by the crop in a week preceding harvest has a heavy influence or sweetness of the fruit. Pineapple grown under shade and in high elevation are generally of lower brix and higher acidity. Fruits harvested during rainy and cloudy days have higher acidity and lower sugar contents.
Rats are a problem in weedy fields or if the crops is near areas with rats populations. Rats generally damage ripe fruits. To control, use standard rodenticides in bait stations.
Mealy bugs are sucking insects with a life span of 50 to 60 days. They are one of the important pests of pineapple because they are carriers of pineapple wilt, the most damaging disease of pineapple. The insects reside on the base of the leaves, on fruits and at the roots and multiply rapidly during the dry months. To control, treat all planting materials with malathion or diazinon. Spray the crop monthly, or as the population of the mealybugs become apparent.
Grubs and worms are soil insects prevalent in some areas. They attack the roots of the crops. Apply soil insecticides in power or granular form for control.
Fire ants and other ants carry mealybugs. They also attack workers in the fields. These are easily killed by insecticides used for soil insects or mealybugs.
After several years of being planted to pineapple, the field could be nematode-infested. Nematodes are plants parasites that cause stunting and poor growth. For small and medium scale growers, crop rotation is the most practical and cheapest control methods. Nematicides may also be used for controlling the pest.
Butt rot and heart rot are major diseases of pineapple growers take from granted. Most commonly affected plant parts are crowns, if used for planting without proper handling and curing, the presence of standing water during the rainy season also induces butt rot on newly-planted crops. Another factor causing rotting of young pineapple crops in poor land preparation, especially with the presence of undecomposed vegetation in the soil at planting.
Another serious disease that could infect pineapple is pineapple wilt. Infected planting materials and the presence of mealybugs that are the carriers of the disease are its main causes. The symptoms of the disease could be mistaken for poor nutrients intake, such as lack of phosphorus, bud hardly noticed by the untrained farmer. Starting with only a few plants, it seriously infects 30 to 70 percent of the crops if not controlled in its early stages. A virus causes the damages. The only effective control method is to rogue out and burn plants as they show signs of the disease.
After spending in planting and in caring for the crop for up to 20 months, the pinerapple grower needs to properly survey the market in order to contact reliable wholesale buyers. Proper fruit handling from harvest field to market is also important to maintain good quality and avoid bruising and damaging fruits.
Monday, February 9, 2009
GUAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE
Guava has a shorter gestation period than most fruit trees. The guava tree starts flowering as early as eight months from planting the seedlings in the fields. With proper care, each tree may yield about 15 kilos of fruits during the first year. By the second year, the tree could yield 45 kilos and in succeeding years, it could produce 60 kilos or more.
Good quality fruits demands high price. The small fruits or those with scars which resulted from fruition caused by the wind during the fruits' formative stages are cheaper. There are usually made into guapple pie or into jam.
One can start with a few mother trees from which subsequent planting materials are propagated. Guavas can be propagated by seed or through marcotting and grafting.
The guava can be made fruitful throughout the year as long as it is irrigated during the summer months. The fruits responds to pruning. When the terminal buds is pinched, new branches are initiated and flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will develop into full-sized fruits.
During the first year, the young plants are fertilized soon after planting with one half kilo of 14-14-14 per tree. A month later, 15 grams of urea is applied per tree.
Eight months after planting, when the trees start to flower, 300 grams of fertilizers is applied. This is a mixture of 16-20-0 and 0-0-60, applied usually in the early part of the rainy season and then before the end of the rainy season.
In the second year, the same kind of mixture is applied, and two times yearly. This time, the dose is one kilo per tree. In succeeding year, the dose is proportionately increased.
The trees should be sprayed monthly with insecticide and fungicide, especially when they are fruiting.
To protect the fruits from fruit fly, the developing fruits are wrapped with plastic bags when they are about the size of an eggs. The fruits are sprayed before they are wrapped.
To produce big fruits, some of the young fruits should be removed from the tree. To produce fruits that will weigh about a kilo each, allow only fruits to develop in a year-old tree.
While very big fruits look impressive, many growers prefer to produce fruits that weigh 300 to 350 grams each This size seems to be the most salable in the market.
Good quality fruits demands high price. The small fruits or those with scars which resulted from fruition caused by the wind during the fruits' formative stages are cheaper. There are usually made into guapple pie or into jam.
One can start with a few mother trees from which subsequent planting materials are propagated. Guavas can be propagated by seed or through marcotting and grafting.
The guava can be made fruitful throughout the year as long as it is irrigated during the summer months. The fruits responds to pruning. When the terminal buds is pinched, new branches are initiated and flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will develop into full-sized fruits.
During the first year, the young plants are fertilized soon after planting with one half kilo of 14-14-14 per tree. A month later, 15 grams of urea is applied per tree.
Eight months after planting, when the trees start to flower, 300 grams of fertilizers is applied. This is a mixture of 16-20-0 and 0-0-60, applied usually in the early part of the rainy season and then before the end of the rainy season.
In the second year, the same kind of mixture is applied, and two times yearly. This time, the dose is one kilo per tree. In succeeding year, the dose is proportionately increased.
The trees should be sprayed monthly with insecticide and fungicide, especially when they are fruiting.
To protect the fruits from fruit fly, the developing fruits are wrapped with plastic bags when they are about the size of an eggs. The fruits are sprayed before they are wrapped.
To produce big fruits, some of the young fruits should be removed from the tree. To produce fruits that will weigh about a kilo each, allow only fruits to develop in a year-old tree.
While very big fruits look impressive, many growers prefer to produce fruits that weigh 300 to 350 grams each This size seems to be the most salable in the market.
Labels:
fertilization,
gestation perod,
planting materials,
pruning,
seedlings
Thursday, February 5, 2009
DRAGON FRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE
The variety from Vietnam have white flesh and is self compatible. There are also varieties with red flesh and yellow-fruited ones. The flowers open at night and can be used as an ornamental. The fruits are attractive bright red or pink with greenish scales or wings. The flesh is sweet, white and creamy dotted uniformly with small black seeds that has distinct flavor.
Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.
It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.
Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.
At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.
It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.
Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.
Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.
Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.
Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.
Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.
Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.
Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.
It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.
Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.
At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.
It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.
Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.
Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.
Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.
Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.
Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.
Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.
Labels:
irrigation,
rooted cuttings,
shelf-life,
soil mixture,
transplanting,
weeding
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
SINTA PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Papaya can produce medium size fruits with less than 2 kilos each with yellow flesh .They are sweet and firm.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Labels:
disease-free,
fertilizing,
planting,
seedlings,
soaking,
transplanting,
varieties,
watering,
weeds control
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