BUSH SITAO PRODUCTION

Bush sitao can be raised in both lowland and upland areas. It can adapt to any soil type but best to plant in sandy to clay loam soil. It can tolerate acidic soil but it will not produce high yield. It can grow in low and high rainfall but only briefly as it will rot due to water-logging. It can survive only if the dry season is brief and not too long. For long dry spell, scheduled watering is needed to preserve or conserve moisture in the soil while the plants are growing.

In selecting a variety, give emphasis the duration of growth, the yielding capacity, tolerant against pests and diseases and easily adapt in extreme weather condition.

Plow and harrow the land 3 times. Loosen the soil well to be able to have good soil condition. Every time there is emerging weeds, remove them through plowing or harrowing.

Inoculate the seeds with Rhizobium before planting. Plant 1 seed per hill. Spacing is 30 centimeters apart or 75 centimeters between rows.

As fertilization is necessary to keep plants healthy and give higher yield, do the following:

In one hectare land:  30 kilograms urea during planting, 100 kilograms single superphosphate at planting time, 60 kilograms muriate of potash at planting time, 5 bags complete fertilizer (14-14-14), Superphosphate (side-dressing 3-4 weeks after germination).  Organic fertilizer (decomposed dry leaves, straws and animal manure 56 tons per hectare, if available). In acidic soils (4 tons of lime one month before planting to good soil pH)

Water the plant during intense dry season for the plants to give higher yield. Bush sitao can tolerate drought but watering may protect it from dryness in the soil or lacking moisture content that may affect the fruiting of the vegetable. Watering may be done during planting, early seeding or first 15 days, at flowering and pod setting (50 days after planting).

Use furrow irrigation in 10 days interval. Watering induce the plant to grow fast, healthy and high pod setting.

Control pests and diseases are normal farming practices. Without it, the plant has stunted growth, damage leaves and fruits, lower yields.

Most pests that attack bush sitao especially after germination of seeds are pod borers, leaffolders and aphids. Spray the plants with insecticides as soon as the pests started attacking the plants. Spraying with pesticides is the only way to get rid the enemy of the plants.

Bush sitao still has another threat in its growing days. The plants are subject to many diseases like fusarium wilt, cowpea rust and leaf spot. Spray the plants with fungicides to remove the infection. Another way to minimize the effect of the virus is to look for resistant variety.

Include weeding as part of your cultural practices. Remove the weeds every now and then if found to germinate to clean the field from the hazard that later on will affect the health of the plants. Schedule the weeding of the plants 3 times for one season. Additionally, enforce spot weeding every time weeds appear.  Hill-up the plants to loosen the soil 3 weeks after planting.

Harvest the plant 12 days after the flowers open. It may be done if the pods reach the required maximum length and width but not to allow young pods to mature as it can no longer sealable to market. The second and succeeding harvest should be done every 3 days to ensure that pods still young and fresh.

VARIEGATED CHICO PRODUCTION GUIDE

It bears a lot of fruits year-round. Its medium-size fruits are fine-textured and very sweet. It is also decorated because of its green and yellow leaves.

It can already be raised effectively thru grafting by means of the method called Crown Grafting, using green chico seedlings as rootstocks. It is a technique whereby the leaves of the scion are not removed. The newly grafted seedlings are then placed in an enclosed chamber. In a matter of just few weeks, the graft will be well-established. The seedlings produced through crown grafting are ready for planting within a shorter period than when the traditional grafting method is used.

It can be grown direct in the ground or in rubberized container. It is both an economic and decorative plant and could be grown in the yard wherever it is possible in containers. It can be maintained as low-growing yet very fruitful. The main trunk was detopped so that many branches develop. For as long as the tree in container is adequately fertilized, it will produce plenty of full-sized fruits.

The rubberized container is provided with drainage holes. Then growing medium that is rich in organic matter is used. This could be a mixture of old rice hull, garden soil and old animal manure (chicken, carabao, horse and the like). Also the plant should be regularly fertilized with chemical fertilizer both foliar and the kind that it placed in the soil.

Complete fertilizer may be applied every month in the containerized chico, the rate depending on the size of the tree. When the fruits are still very small, ammonium sulfate may be added (half-half) to the complete fertilizer. When the fruits are already big, the complete fertilizer may be reinforced with equal amount of 0-0-60 (muriate of potash) to make the fruits sweeter. Micro-nutrients or trace elements may also be added in small amounts to make the fruits are juicy.

When the plant is in the ground, it should be provided with good drainage. If the soil is hard clay, a cubic meter hole may be dug and filled with a mixture of well-decomposed animal manure, rice hull and topsoil. Addition of old manure twice a year may be done. Also, chemical fertilizer (both applied in the soil and through the leaves) will keep the tree in good shape.

Mealy bugs may infect the plants. They are usually in the company of ants. The mealy bugs suck the sap of the tree which could cause stunting. Sooty mold could also result because the secretions of the mealy bugs can attract fungal growth. The pests, however, are easy to control by spraying any of the standard insecticides.

A surefire way of multiplying the variegated chico even by inexperience hobbyists. This is through inarching. This is done by taking rootstocks with a stem about the size of the small finger. Then select a branch of the same size of a tree grown in the ground or in a container. Remove strip of the bark and portion of the wood of the rootstocks, about three inches long.  Then make similar cut on the branch selected. Join the two by means of tying tightly with the plastic straw. In two months the union would have been achieved. Cut off the branch below the point of union and also cut the top of the rootstock above the point of union. You will then have a young tree with variegated top.

TARO PRODUCTION GUIDE

It grows on all soil types. Best in deep, well-drained, alluvial loam with high level of water composition. It can easily adapt to moist environment. If grown in upland areas, sufficient water is needed.

Plow and harrow the field until the soil become loose and friable. In a lowland areas, plow and harrow 4 times. Water the field for 2 days before planting to make the soil soft easy for planting. In upland areas, plow and harrow 3 times before planting. In planting, use pointed metal to make a hole to make it easy.

It can be propagated vegetatively by using corms either whole or in pieces, stem cuttings or even cormels. Traditionally, stem cutting is preferable because it can produce higher yield. During wet season planting is done before the start of rainy season. If irrigation facilities is available, planting can be done whole year round.

The purpose of applying fertilizer to the plants is to keep the rapid development of leaves and to ensure a fast enlargement of corms. Using compost as fertilizer is highly recommended. Mixed it thoroughly during land preparation, 1 to 2 weeks before planting. You can use complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 400 kg in one hectare.

Diseases attack the taro leaves. Use handpicking. Apply commercial insecticides at 6-14 days interval. Use it at the rate of 2 tablespoon every 4 gallon of water. In case of nematode attack, use nematicides you can buy in agricultural supply and fumigate the plants.

Taro can be harvested when most of the leaves turn to yellow color. Maturity of plants in lowland areas is about 8 to 12 months. Taro can mature in upland areas 9 months after planting.

Harvest the plants during dry season. Pulled the corm slowly by the use of hands or tools. Protect the corms for any bruises to avoid rotting. It can be stored in a well-ventilated area where circulation of air can keep it dry to prolong many months of storage.

CASHEW PRODUCTION GUIDE

Cashew can survive in a hilly areas where crops cannot grow. It can grow in all types of soil. Planting in a deep loam soil will have a chance for better yield especially if the soil has enough moisture during its period of growth.

It can withstand a long period of drought where rainfall is minimal. It can grow in an areas with too much moisture provided it has a good drainage system. Further, it can grow in low level areas either a rolling or flat areas.

In preparing a planting materials choose an area that has good drainage, well-drained and exposed to sunlight. Good source of water is needed for the better growth of the seedling. Select a good seed, fully matured. Sow the seed in prepared polyethelene plastic bags containing equal portion o fine sand to that of nutrient-rich humus soil. Sow the seeds 10 cm deep in the soil.

The germination period is one week or more. Control the watering of the planted seeds or newly emerging plants. If the seedlings are not growing well, application of urea at the rate of 12 tablespoon in every gallon of water. Good maintenance in caring the seedling is needed until it is ready for planting in a selected location. Plant the seedlings when it is about 50 centimeters in height.

Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow 3 times and do the harrowing according to the required tilling. It is best if the preparation of the land is done before the start of the rainy season. Plant the seedling in a hole with a measurement of 25x25x25 cms (LxWxH) nearest to a month before the scheduled planting.

It is recommended to have a distance of 6x6 meters between the plants. For easy growth of the seedling, plant it at the start of the rainy season. To induce fast root growth and development, remove the cellophane bags and placed it in a holes full of surface soil.

During its period of growth, the planted seedlings should be weeded in a safe distance of one meter in every tree. Remove the weeds at all times. Use dried grasses as mulch to the base of the plants for the purpose of conserving enough moisture in the soil.

A newly planted seedlings needs enought water during the period of its growth. Water it properly according to its usage only. Avoid over-watering to avoid damaging the seedlings. Remove all weeds around the plants. Keep itclean to avoid invitation of pests. Planting other cash crops along the growing plants have a better advantage of keeping the surrounding free from weeds.

When the trees already in its full growth, do the pruning. This is to allow an even distribution of branches and leaves. Regularly remove all diseased branches. Do fertilization by using complete fertilizer (14-14-14) about 350 grams per tree for the seedling. For a young trees during its fruiting stage, use 3 kilograms per tree. Cover the fertilizer properly in the soil around the tree. Place it in a series of small holes 10 centimeters deep.

Apply the necessary control measures for the trees and its fruits. Use pesticides accordinf to manufacturer's recommended dosage.

Cashew trees can bear fruits 3 to 4 years. Full bearing is 12th year and will continue for another 15 years or even more.

CITRUS PRODUCTION GUIDE

It can grow well in an elevated area with cool environment. Best in sandy soil and full of organic matters. It is not advisable to plant to a water-logged areas because of its sensitivity to too much moisture.

Using marcot system as planting materials can give a better result for fast growth and development compared to seeds. But the problem is shortage in quantity requirements unlike seeds it can easily produced.

When preparing your planting materials, do this during rainy season for higher germination rate. Dig a hole 45 cm wide and 45cm deep. Use compost along with the seedlings during planting. Water the plant early in the morning until the plants can grow by itself with minimal use of water. Use 6 meters distance between plants to avoid congestion.

Fertilization should be done regularly. Use ammonium sulfate about 100 grams to be done every 5 months per tree. On the second year, apply 300 grams per tree every 5 months. During the fruit bearing years (4th year),use amophos or potash about 500 grams per tree. The purpose is to increase the yield.

The correct application of fertilizer is by mixing it with the soil. It is a necessary to cover the soil around the tree by using dry leaves for the purpose of conserving moisture.

Control of pests and diseases is a necessity. Apply the necessary pesticides or fungicides under manufacturer's recommendation for greater result. Such application will ensure that the plant will grow healthy and have a maximum yield.

Experience sbowed that the trees will bear fruit by the 3rd year. With the use of good management during its fruiting years, the trees will have a good harvest.

To protect the fruits from damage, use scissors for convenience. If the fruit trees are high enough to harvest especially during its later years of bearing fruits, use a ladder for easy mobility.

GARLIC PRODUCTION GUIDE

It grows best in areas of mild climate. In the early stages of its growth, it requires a cooler environment. During maturation, a dry weather with moderate high temperature is required.

Garlic can also be grown from sea level or above. It can grow in all types of soil but they prefer a sandy loam, silty loam and clay loam. Consider to have a fertile soil, rich in organic matter. It should be a well-drained place. It is a necessity to maintain a good soil moisture supply during its growth and development.

A hectare area need 1,000 kg. of garlic seedpieces. The land should be properly and thoroughly tilled. It should be well-prepared 6 weeks before planting. Plow the field 3 to 4 times at 7 days interval. The purpose is to improve soil texture. You have to apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Mulch it with 3-5 cm layer of rice straw after planting to conserve moisture and control weeds.

Cut straw and weeds close to the ground after the rice is harvested. The soil should be dry in a desired moisture level. You can construct small canals around the rice paddies to ensure that no standing water will stay in the paddy after an irrigation is made due to heavy rain.

A one hectare area need 7 bags of complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 2 bags of urea (46-0-0), 2 bags of superphosphate (0-18-0) and a bag of muriate of potash (0-0-60). Apply superphosphate and complete fertilizer as basal fertilizer prior to planting. Another combination of urea and muriate of potash 30 days and 70 days after planting.

Irrigate lightly but frequent to provide continuous presence of uniform moisture supply throughout its growing period. Regulate watering during bulb formation to have a proper ripening. When the tops begin to fall over, then stop the irrigation to avoid rotting, reduced quality and watery bulbs.

Select only a healthy planting materials. Control humidity in the field with lower planting density and proper irrigation. Control foliar disease by spraying the proper control measures. Remove all infected leaves. Harvest only mature bulbs. Cure it properly. Maintain good ventilation and air circulation during the curing, packing and storage.

To prevent army worm, used overhead irrigation by spraying water and soap solution. Remove infected leaves. An extract from pepper can be use to spray the plant. The use of ash around the plant can control this pests infestation. Further, you have to manage weeding properly to have sufficient presence of natural enemies against insect pests.

Harvest when it is already 80% of the leaves to turn yellow while started to fold over. The bulbs should be pulled properly from the soil 100 days after planting.

Harvested bulb are to be cured 14 days under dry shade. Proper drying method is needed to reduce the presence of diseases during the storage. This is also to have a good skin color.

After the curing, cut leaves 12 cm from the top of the bulb. You can select a good bulb according to its size and quality of the bulb in a well-ventilated area to keept it dry.

MUNGBEAN PRODUCTION GUIDE

It can be grown during wet and dry seasons except in areas with heavy rainfall. The plants can thrive well in any soil type but yields are better from deep, well-drained and fertile soils. Acidic soils affect the growth of the plants due to lacking of essential nutrients.

Practice complete land preparation in an upland condition. Plow it twice and harrow twice with four passings in one harrowing after plowing. Make furrows 60 and 70 centimeters apart for the dry and wet season.

In the lowland areas, you can plant the mungbeans after the harvest of rice. No need for land preparation in order to conserve the needed moisture before the planting. See to it that the areas for planting is not weedy enough.

Plant in rows to make weeding easier. Space the plant in rows about 55 to 70 centimeters. Fertilization will depend on the kind of soil and the presence of required nutrients. It is recommended to apply fertilizer based on 30-30-30 kilograms of NPK per hectare.

It does not require any irrigation if planted during wet season. Removed all weeds from the field for at least 1-1/2 weeks during emergence of seedlings. You can do handweeding during the first week when the seedling emerged. Do the hilling-up in the third to fourth week. Spot weeding is necessary to remove fast growing weeds. Maybe 2-3 weedings is needed to get a good yield.

They were proned to beanfly damaged and aphids and other pests as the plant matures. Assess the damaged and do the necessary measures by the application of insecticides. If diseases hit the plants then remove the infected plants. Apply fungicides to control disease occurrence.

Harvest mungbean by hand as soon as 80% of the pods are fully dried. Harvest it 60 days from crop emergence. Harvest 2nd time 15 days after the first priming.

Dry pods in the sun then thresh by beating the pods inside a sack with a wooden stick. Dry the seeds further for 3 days until it can reach a moisture level of 12 percent to facilitate longer storage.

PINEAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE

Pineapple is a tropical fruit that can be planted to any place most suitable for planting. It can survive even during the period of dry ad wet season. It can grow at sea level. They are suited to be planted in a medium elevation. A sandy loam soil and a soil having a slight acidity will do.

Needing thorough land preparation. Pineapple need a culture period of 15 to 24 months from planting to harvest. Poor land preparation will result in high costs for controlling weeds, and how fruit production due to the weeds. For planting materials, pineapple growers used crowns,slips, and suckers. Slips are the best to use for low plant mortality. Crowns needs curing and chemical treatment to avoid high mortality due to butt rot. It is best to segregate different types of planting materials during the planting.

For farmers planting for local consumption 50,000 plants per hectare is the ideal density.

Due to high population densities and the long culture period, the fertilizer requirements of pineapple per average soil fertility as follows: N-400 to 600 kilograms/hectare, P-120 to 200 kilograms/hectare, K-200 to 300 kilograms/hectare. Soil analysis can enable the planter to accurately determine fertilizers requirement.

Used organic fertilizers such as those that are guano-based or manure-based in combination with organic or chemical fertilizers.Most of elements like irons, zinc, manganese and boron can also be applied in foliar spraying. Dry fertilizer application is practical up to the seventh month of growth of plants. As the pineapple plants grow closer to each other, foliar fertilizer application becomes more practical.

Since pineapple is a shallow-rooted plants, high weed population could take away from its soil nutrients and fertilizer, and consequently greatly reduced production by as much as 50 percent. Chemical weed control is a must if the grower can afford it and if chemicals are available.

Although cheap or in terms of labor cost, hand weeding is actually more expensive and less effective in the early stages of crop growth. When weeds like nutsedge are present in the field, chemical control during the first few months of pineapple growth is the most effective and economical weeding method.

For high fruit tonnage per hectare, pineapple should be induced to flower when the plants are 10 to 12 months, or when they reach an average weight of three kilograms per plant in good cultural management.

Five to five-and-a half months after using flower inducer, pineapple starts ripening. It could enable the grower to attain 80 to 95 percent recovery for the first harvest.

The amount of sunlight received by the crop in a week preceding harvest has a heavy influence or sweetness of the fruit. Pineapple grown under shade and in high elevation are generally of lower brix and higher acidity. Fruits harvested during rainy and cloudy days have higher acidity and lower sugar contents.

Rats are a problem in weedy fields or if the crops is near areas with rats populations. Rats generally damage ripe fruits. To control, use standard rodenticides in bait stations.

Mealy bugs are sucking insects with a life span of 50 to 60 days. They are one of the important pests of pineapple because they are carriers of pineapple wilt, the most damaging disease of pineapple. The insects reside on the base of the leaves, on fruits and at the roots and multiply rapidly during the dry months. To control, treat all planting materials with malathion or diazinon. Spray the crop monthly, or as the population of the mealybugs become apparent.

Grubs and worms are soil insects prevalent in some areas. They attack the roots of the crops. Apply soil insecticides in power or granular form for control.

Fire ants and other ants carry mealybugs. They also attack workers in the fields. These are easily killed by insecticides used for soil insects or mealybugs.

After several years of being planted to pineapple, the field could be nematode-infested. Nematodes are plants parasites that cause stunting and poor growth. For small and medium scale growers, crop rotation is the most practical and cheapest control methods. Nematicides may also be used for controlling the pest.

Butt rot and heart rot are major diseases of pineapple growers take from granted. Most commonly affected plant parts are crowns, if used for planting without proper handling and curing, the presence of standing water during the rainy season also induces butt rot on newly-planted crops. Another factor causing rotting of young pineapple crops in poor land preparation, especially with the presence of undecomposed vegetation in the soil at planting.

Another serious disease that could infect pineapple is pineapple wilt. Infected planting materials and the presence of mealybugs that are the carriers of the disease are its main causes. The symptoms of the disease could be mistaken for poor nutrients intake, such as lack of phosphorus, bud hardly noticed by the untrained farmer. Starting with only a few plants, it seriously infects 30 to 70 percent of the crops if not controlled in its early stages. A virus causes the damages. The only effective control method is to rogue out and burn plants as they show signs of the disease.

After spending in planting and in caring for the crop for up to 20 months, the pinerapple grower needs to properly survey the market in order to contact reliable wholesale buyers. Proper fruit handling from harvest field to market is also important to maintain good quality and avoid bruising and damaging fruits.