To start a project, you need 60 square meters pond. Find a place where water is already available and plenty. The dikes must be thicker at the base than the top to avoid erosion.
In digging the pond, the side where to drain the water should be deeper than the other side. The purpose is for easy draining. Maintain water depth of 150 centimeters or less.
Before flowing the pond with water, fertilization with chicken manure is advisable. You can use complete fertilizer in order to promote the growth of algae. Use a khaki campbell as it lays as many as 300 or more per year. The eggs were family large, thick-shelled weighing 75 grams each.
Build a duck house in one side above the water of the pond. Place 15 ducks in a pond. Provides 2 males and 13 females. Build a house of 4 square meters floor area made of bamboo slats. Build swimming pen beside the duck house 4 square meters with 6x6 feet. Use the all-purpose feed formula using soybean meals, leaf meals, copra meals, corm grits, bone meal, shell powder and salt.
You can have an alternate feeds for them, a chopped vegetables, grated coconut or crushed snails, their favorite food. Give water and feeds every morning and afternoon. When they reach 6 months, they starts laying eggs. The layers will continue producing eggs more than 3 years as long as they are manage well.
Early in the morning, the eggs will scatter in the duck house. Gather it without them nearby and clean their feeding trough. Scrap the remaining feeds and wash in the pond. As substitute, raise snails in the pond for your duck have a nutrition protein meal.
Showing posts with label watering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label watering. Show all posts
Thursday, January 14, 2010
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
TARO PRODUCTION GUIDE
It grows on all soil types. Best in deep, well-drained, alluvial loam with high level of water composition. It can easily adapt to moist environment. If grown in upland areas, sufficient water is needed.
Plow and harrow the field until the soil become loose and friable. In a lowland areas, plow and harrow 4 times. Water the field for 2 days before planting to make the soil soft easy for planting. In upland areas, plow and harrow 3 times before planting. In planting, use pointed metal to make a hole to make it easy.
It can be propagated vegetatively by using corms either whole or in pieces, stem cuttings or even cormels. Traditionally, stem cutting is preferable because it can produce higher yield. During wet season planting is done before the start of rainy season. If irrigation facilities is available, planting can be done whole year round.
The purpose of applying fertilizer to the plants is to keep the rapid development of leaves and to ensure a fast enlargement of corms. Using compost as fertilizer is highly recommended. Mixed it thoroughly during land preparation, 1 to 2 weeks before planting. You can use complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 400 kg in one hectare.
Diseases attack the taro leaves. Use handpicking. Apply commercial insecticides at 6-14 days interval. Use it at the rate of 2 tablespoon every 4 gallon of water. In case of nematode attack, use nematicides you can buy in agricultural supply and fumigate the plants.
Taro can be harvested when most of the leaves turn to yellow color. Maturity of plants in lowland areas is about 8 to 12 months. Taro can mature in upland areas 9 months after planting.
Harvest the plants during dry season. Pulled the corm slowly by the use of hands or tools. Protect the corms for any bruises to avoid rotting. It can be stored in a well-ventilated area where circulation of air can keep it dry to prolong many months of storage.
Plow and harrow the field until the soil become loose and friable. In a lowland areas, plow and harrow 4 times. Water the field for 2 days before planting to make the soil soft easy for planting. In upland areas, plow and harrow 3 times before planting. In planting, use pointed metal to make a hole to make it easy.
It can be propagated vegetatively by using corms either whole or in pieces, stem cuttings or even cormels. Traditionally, stem cutting is preferable because it can produce higher yield. During wet season planting is done before the start of rainy season. If irrigation facilities is available, planting can be done whole year round.
The purpose of applying fertilizer to the plants is to keep the rapid development of leaves and to ensure a fast enlargement of corms. Using compost as fertilizer is highly recommended. Mixed it thoroughly during land preparation, 1 to 2 weeks before planting. You can use complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 400 kg in one hectare.
Diseases attack the taro leaves. Use handpicking. Apply commercial insecticides at 6-14 days interval. Use it at the rate of 2 tablespoon every 4 gallon of water. In case of nematode attack, use nematicides you can buy in agricultural supply and fumigate the plants.
Taro can be harvested when most of the leaves turn to yellow color. Maturity of plants in lowland areas is about 8 to 12 months. Taro can mature in upland areas 9 months after planting.
Harvest the plants during dry season. Pulled the corm slowly by the use of hands or tools. Protect the corms for any bruises to avoid rotting. It can be stored in a well-ventilated area where circulation of air can keep it dry to prolong many months of storage.
SUNFLOWER PRODUCTION GUIDE
The plant can be grown mostly in all types of soil in a dry condition. The yield can greatly improve if irrigation is used during the formation of the bud and during the end of the flowering period.
It can be planted any month of the year but best in January. It is harvestable after 4 months time. It can produce a higher yield if planted in fertile soil and have a better drainage system.
Plant sunflower in a single row 70 cm from the next row. You can also use a double row 45 centimeters spacing between rows and 1 meter every two rows. The depth is 5 centimeters in planting the seeds.
In one hectare land, it needs an estimated 15 kilograms. The quality of the seed should be given to attain a 90% germination rate. Cultivate the land one or two times. Fertilization can increase production and obtain a higher yield. Using NP combination of 120-120 or 120-160 is mostly recommended.
Use a furrow irrigation method to avoid water logging. Do the necessary pest control measures to ensure protection from pests. Proper pesticides application is needed. Some of the diseases noted are damping off, bacterial wilts, leaf spot rust. Proper application of fungicide is needed for better result.
Harvesting can be done by cutting sunflower heads. Use scythe in harvesting.
It can be planted any month of the year but best in January. It is harvestable after 4 months time. It can produce a higher yield if planted in fertile soil and have a better drainage system.
Plant sunflower in a single row 70 cm from the next row. You can also use a double row 45 centimeters spacing between rows and 1 meter every two rows. The depth is 5 centimeters in planting the seeds.
In one hectare land, it needs an estimated 15 kilograms. The quality of the seed should be given to attain a 90% germination rate. Cultivate the land one or two times. Fertilization can increase production and obtain a higher yield. Using NP combination of 120-120 or 120-160 is mostly recommended.
Use a furrow irrigation method to avoid water logging. Do the necessary pest control measures to ensure protection from pests. Proper pesticides application is needed. Some of the diseases noted are damping off, bacterial wilts, leaf spot rust. Proper application of fungicide is needed for better result.
Harvesting can be done by cutting sunflower heads. Use scythe in harvesting.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
SINTA PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Papaya can produce medium size fruits with less than 2 kilos each with yellow flesh .They are sweet and firm.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Monday, January 26, 2009
HAIRY LYCHEE PRODUCTION GUIDE
It is known as Rambutan, Nephilium lappaceum gained much popularity and acceptance in its introduction to the country. This spiny fruit is available only during August to October and quite expensive.
You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.
It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.
Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.
A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.
For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.
The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.
In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.
Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.
Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.
During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.
Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.
Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.
Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.
Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.
You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.
It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.
Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.
A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.
For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.
The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.
In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.
Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.
Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.
During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.
Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.
Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.
Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.
Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)