Most varieties grow wild in mid and high temperature during dry season. There are also varieties that grow well in wet season. In low elevation, some varieties can grow in a dry, cool months. They are best in clay loam and sandy loam soil.
Prepare the land thoroughly by plowing and harrowing several times. Furrow measurement in low and mild elevation with a depth of 0.5 meters wide. In high elevations, the beds should be 1 meter wide.
In the seedling production, the width of seedbed should be 1 meter wide. Use manure and rice hull ash mix in the soil in the seedbed. Sow in line about 275g/hectare of seeds. The furrow across the seedbed 10 cm part. Sowing should be thin to prevent damping off. Mulch with rice hull or grass as shade for the sunlight and rain protection. Spray with insecticides when necessary.
Do the transplanting after a week of exposing the seedling fully to sunlight. The seedling are ready 4 weeks from sowing. Water the seedbed and gently uproot the seedlings. Transplanting in a row should be .75 cm apart and .50 meters between plants. Apply basal fertilizer 10 grams per hill (14-14-14). Irrigate the area before and after transplanting.
Mulch with rice straw, rice hulls or plastic to prevent weed growth and to conserve soil mixture. Sidedress with urea (46-0-0) about 1og per plant 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat side-dressing at 35 and 45 days after transplanting. Fertilization can only be done after weeding.
During dry season, be sure to irrigate the field before doing transplanting. Repeat irrigating every 10 days using furrow irrigation. If you use sprinkler, do it 3 times a week to keep the plant healthy and keeping the soil with enough moisture content.
Do the necessary pest and disease control measures during the period of its development. Avoid overcrowding the plants. Control too much watering in seedbeds. Spray fungicide when disease is present. It is better if you can do from time to time a crop rotation to assure the fertility of the soil and control pests and disease infestation.
Avoid monocropping. Remove all debris from previous cropping. Use pesticides to spray the plants.
Harvesting can only be done when the curds are well-formed. Include portion of stems and leaves as protection of the curds. do not expose the harvested plants to full sunlight.
Showing posts with label soil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soil. Show all posts
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Monday, January 26, 2009
HAIRY LYCHEE PRODUCTION GUIDE
It is known as Rambutan, Nephilium lappaceum gained much popularity and acceptance in its introduction to the country. This spiny fruit is available only during August to October and quite expensive.
You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.
It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.
Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.
A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.
For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.
The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.
In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.
Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.
Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.
During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.
Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.
Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.
Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.
Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.
You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.
It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.
Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.
A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.
For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.
The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.
In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.
Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.
Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.
During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.
Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.
Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.
Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.
Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Experience showed that papaya grows best in light and well-dried soils. It should be rich in organic matter for the plant to grow faster. There are some limitation.They do not grow well on certain clay soil which lack of good aeration and are poorly drained with water. Those papaya grown in that kind of soil become spindly and stunted, and produce less fruits during the duration of their fruiting season. Sub-soiling is necessary. Papaya will grow on any type of soil as long as this is not poorly drained or does not easily dry up during hot season.
The soil must have a good supply of available nutrients. This nutrients is important for their growth and development. Papaya can grow best on soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.0.
Papaya is a tropical fruit crop. It prefers warm areas with abundant rainfall or good irrigation. An average daily temperature ranging from 21' to 33'C is ideal for robust growth. It can tolerate higher temperatures. The soil should have adequate moisture. In cool weather condition it reduces growth and yield. further, it can affect its fruit flavor. Too much coolness and humid nights can cause the fruits to mature slowly and even has low quality fruits.
In order to provide suitable soil condition, thoroughly prepared the area to be planted with papaya. Clean the field, plow and harrow alternately two or three times to kill the weeds and provides good internal drainage. Plant at distances ranging from two to three meters, depending on the variety. This is to avoid close concentration of each tree.
It can be planted by direct seeding in the field. Place five or more seeds in each hole. Cover with one fourth inch of soil. If you sow fresh seeds, it will germinate 10 to 14 days after planting. Seeds germinate better and faster by removing the gelatinous envelopes surrounding them. You can use your fingers. It can be done easily.
Do the thinning of the seedlings planted directly in the field four to six weeks after emergence. Leave only three of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save the plants that are spaced far enough from one another. The purpose is to avoid overcrowding hampering its growth.
Do the second and final thinning in the field when flowers appear. This is usually four to six months after seed germination. At this stage, leave only three trees to the planting hole. This is the ideal thinning method.
Establish a windbreaks. It is necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. It can control damages to the full grown trees. Space the strips of windbreaks at a distance of 21 to 29 times the height of windbreaks trees. If the winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.
to the trees. A good windbreak is not necessarily a solid wall against the wind. A permeable windbreaks allows some of the air to pass through.
Application of fertilizer starts at seed planting or seedling transplanting in the field. Mix a handful (five to 10 grams) of a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of each hole before planting. As the papaya seedling grows larger, apply more fertilizer. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as the plants are well established especially when it shows new growth. Apply the same amount at six-week intervals until the plants are one year old. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate to each plant every three months. Apply 450 grams of super phosphate per plant at the start of the rainy season each year. If this application done strictly, it can protect the plants from undergrowth that will affect its good fruiting ability.
Doing weed control by the use of mechanical and chemical means is advisable when the papaya plants are less than one-and-a-half meters in height. Use a hand weeding about one meter around the base of the trunk.
Among the most common pests are red spider mites and fruit fly. Control it with chemicals. To prevent fruit fly, harvest fruits at the mature green stage. The common disease are fruit rot, blossom-end spot. It can be controlled by spraying chemicals. Burn all infected fruits and leaves as soon as the disease is noted.
Handle the fruits properly during the harvesting period and during packing. Remove infected fruits to prevent contaminating the rest. Apply proper fungicides.
Fruits are ready for harvesting when it shows a definite yellow-orange tinge in the apex of blossom-end regions of the plant. It is advisable to pick the fruits when they are still in the firm, semi ripe state to avoid more damages. Use cottom gloves when harvesting so as to lessen thumb and fingers bruising. Harvest by twisting the fruit until its stalks snaps off the plant.
The soil must have a good supply of available nutrients. This nutrients is important for their growth and development. Papaya can grow best on soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.0.
Papaya is a tropical fruit crop. It prefers warm areas with abundant rainfall or good irrigation. An average daily temperature ranging from 21' to 33'C is ideal for robust growth. It can tolerate higher temperatures. The soil should have adequate moisture. In cool weather condition it reduces growth and yield. further, it can affect its fruit flavor. Too much coolness and humid nights can cause the fruits to mature slowly and even has low quality fruits.
In order to provide suitable soil condition, thoroughly prepared the area to be planted with papaya. Clean the field, plow and harrow alternately two or three times to kill the weeds and provides good internal drainage. Plant at distances ranging from two to three meters, depending on the variety. This is to avoid close concentration of each tree.
It can be planted by direct seeding in the field. Place five or more seeds in each hole. Cover with one fourth inch of soil. If you sow fresh seeds, it will germinate 10 to 14 days after planting. Seeds germinate better and faster by removing the gelatinous envelopes surrounding them. You can use your fingers. It can be done easily.
Do the thinning of the seedlings planted directly in the field four to six weeks after emergence. Leave only three of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save the plants that are spaced far enough from one another. The purpose is to avoid overcrowding hampering its growth.
Do the second and final thinning in the field when flowers appear. This is usually four to six months after seed germination. At this stage, leave only three trees to the planting hole. This is the ideal thinning method.
Establish a windbreaks. It is necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. It can control damages to the full grown trees. Space the strips of windbreaks at a distance of 21 to 29 times the height of windbreaks trees. If the winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.
to the trees. A good windbreak is not necessarily a solid wall against the wind. A permeable windbreaks allows some of the air to pass through.
Application of fertilizer starts at seed planting or seedling transplanting in the field. Mix a handful (five to 10 grams) of a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of each hole before planting. As the papaya seedling grows larger, apply more fertilizer. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as the plants are well established especially when it shows new growth. Apply the same amount at six-week intervals until the plants are one year old. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate to each plant every three months. Apply 450 grams of super phosphate per plant at the start of the rainy season each year. If this application done strictly, it can protect the plants from undergrowth that will affect its good fruiting ability.
Doing weed control by the use of mechanical and chemical means is advisable when the papaya plants are less than one-and-a-half meters in height. Use a hand weeding about one meter around the base of the trunk.
Among the most common pests are red spider mites and fruit fly. Control it with chemicals. To prevent fruit fly, harvest fruits at the mature green stage. The common disease are fruit rot, blossom-end spot. It can be controlled by spraying chemicals. Burn all infected fruits and leaves as soon as the disease is noted.
Handle the fruits properly during the harvesting period and during packing. Remove infected fruits to prevent contaminating the rest. Apply proper fungicides.
Fruits are ready for harvesting when it shows a definite yellow-orange tinge in the apex of blossom-end regions of the plant. It is advisable to pick the fruits when they are still in the firm, semi ripe state to avoid more damages. Use cottom gloves when harvesting so as to lessen thumb and fingers bruising. Harvest by twisting the fruit until its stalks snaps off the plant.
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