DRACAENA PRODUCTION GUIDE

        

It is shrubby, herbaceous and evergreen plant. It grows 2 meters tall. As they grow, they will start forming a clump where the suckers are produced. Its stem is slender. It has strap-shaped sheathed leaves. They are flexible arranged in spiral.

The taller the plant the chance of bending is possible. They will bend if there is strong wind. It can be affected also during heavy rainfall because of top heavy foliage unless there is support that can hold them. If there is none, they can easily topple down.

It is best grown in pottery or clay pot. It has been used as ornamental plants. It can be propagated by cutting, the easiest way to raise them. The shoot tip or top cutting will root fast in the planting medium. In 4 weeks’ time there will be a solid foundation of its rooting system. Place in tap water, the tip cutting of the shoots will start to grow in 12 days. The cuttings should be in diagnosed cuts below the node of the plants. See to it that it is healthy, clean and disease-free.

Place layer of wax at the top of the stump were the cuttings was taken for purpose of preventing the entry of water and micro-organisms that will cause disease to the plant.

The dormant buds along the stem will sprout slowly. New shoots will form in a month. After 6 months it can be harvested as shoot tips cuttings. This will be subject to further propagation where the new sets of dormant buds will start to grow.

During your potting, place 3 plants in the same planting medium. It grows denser or thicker after several months after potting. In the pot, it should contain equal measures of sawdust and burst rice hull. Sand and coconut coir dust can also be used. Pure soil has limited use. It should be mix in the same quality with coconut choir dust.

The leaves of the ornamental plant are very sensitive to bright, indirect light. Using fine-mesh net is helpful to reduce heavy light penetration. It can also prevent direct exposure to sunlight. Too much heat will cause leaf burns. The leaves will become yellowish and brownish. The cuttings should be rooted in a spade away light exposure. The new transplanted rooting cutting will remain in the shade more or less 7 days before they are slowly exposed to bright light.

During dry months or hot days, water the rooted cuttings regularly once daily. Don’t use the heavy chlorinated water or salty water as it affects its growth and the color of the leaves.

Fertilize the plants one week after transplanting to clay pot. Use 1 tablespoon complete fertilizer (14-14-14) in every 1 gallon of water. Do it 3 times every month. Additionally, fertilize it with 1 tablespoon urea (46-0-0) every 1 gallon of water once in a month. You also have to use complete controlled release fertilizer with the rate of ½ teaspoon per pot for height of 6-inch plants only 1 every 3 months. You can increase the frequency according to the height and the size of the plants in the pot.

In case of insect infestation, spray the plant systemic insecticide or meticide and spray it to the affected plants. Most infestation is common during dry season. To give complete protection, application of insecticide is necessary to ensure the plant will grow insect-free. Additionally, by washing it regularly, it helps prevent the pests to live in the leaves of the plants.

Always keep the surroundings of the placed cuttings clean free from weeds and other damaging grasses. 

Apply fungicides if you find the presence of fungus in the soil. The disease mostly appeared during wet days. It is important not to expose them heavily in the rain as root rot and stem rot are common causes for the plants to die. If there is weak or unhealthy plants in the pot, reduce its population and remove them. It will only affect the healthy one if allowed to remain in the pot.

If all this given procedures is honestly followed you can have a nursery of good and healthy ornamental most sought by buyers for their landscaping needs and indoor placements.

TARO PRODUCTION GUIDE

It grows on all soil types. Best in deep, well-drained, alluvial loam with high level of water composition. It can easily adapt to moist environment. If grown in upland areas, sufficient water is needed.

Plow and harrow the field until the soil become loose and friable. In a lowland areas, plow and harrow 4 times. Water the field for 2 days before planting to make the soil soft easy for planting. In upland areas, plow and harrow 3 times before planting. In planting, use pointed metal to make a hole to make it easy.

It can be propagated vegetatively by using corms either whole or in pieces, stem cuttings or even cormels. Traditionally, stem cutting is preferable because it can produce higher yield. During wet season planting is done before the start of rainy season. If irrigation facilities is available, planting can be done whole year round.

The purpose of applying fertilizer to the plants is to keep the rapid development of leaves and to ensure a fast enlargement of corms. Using compost as fertilizer is highly recommended. Mixed it thoroughly during land preparation, 1 to 2 weeks before planting. You can use complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 400 kg in one hectare.

Diseases attack the taro leaves. Use handpicking. Apply commercial insecticides at 6-14 days interval. Use it at the rate of 2 tablespoon every 4 gallon of water. In case of nematode attack, use nematicides you can buy in agricultural supply and fumigate the plants.

Taro can be harvested when most of the leaves turn to yellow color. Maturity of plants in lowland areas is about 8 to 12 months. Taro can mature in upland areas 9 months after planting.

Harvest the plants during dry season. Pulled the corm slowly by the use of hands or tools. Protect the corms for any bruises to avoid rotting. It can be stored in a well-ventilated area where circulation of air can keep it dry to prolong many months of storage.

PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE

Experience showed that papaya grows best in light and well-dried soils. It should be rich in organic matter for the plant to grow faster. There are some limitation.They do not grow well on certain clay soil which lack of good aeration and are poorly drained with water. Those papaya grown in that kind of soil become spindly and stunted, and produce less fruits during the duration of their fruiting season. Sub-soiling is necessary. Papaya will grow on any type of soil as long as this is not poorly drained or does not easily dry up during hot season.

The soil must have a good supply of available nutrients. This nutrients is important for their growth and development. Papaya can grow best on soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.0.

Papaya is a tropical fruit crop. It prefers warm areas with abundant rainfall or good irrigation. An average daily temperature ranging from 21' to 33'C is ideal for robust growth. It can tolerate higher temperatures. The soil should have adequate moisture. In cool weather condition it reduces growth and yield. further, it can affect its fruit flavor. Too much coolness and humid nights can cause the fruits to mature slowly and even has low quality fruits.

In order to provide suitable soil condition, thoroughly prepared the area to be planted with papaya. Clean the field, plow and harrow alternately two or three times to kill the weeds and provides good internal drainage. Plant at distances ranging from two to three meters, depending on the variety. This is to avoid close concentration of each tree.

It can be planted by direct seeding in the field. Place five or more seeds in each hole. Cover with one fourth inch of soil. If you sow fresh seeds, it will germinate 10 to 14 days after planting. Seeds germinate better and faster by removing the gelatinous envelopes surrounding them. You can use your fingers. It can be done easily.

Do the thinning of the seedlings planted directly in the field four to six weeks after emergence. Leave only three of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save the plants that are spaced far enough from one another. The purpose is to avoid overcrowding hampering its growth.

Do the second and final thinning in the field when flowers appear. This is usually four to six months after seed germination. At this stage, leave only three trees to the planting hole. This is the ideal thinning method.

Establish a windbreaks. It is necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. It can control damages to the full grown trees. Space the strips of windbreaks at a distance of 21 to 29 times the height of windbreaks trees. If the winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.
to the trees. A good windbreak is not necessarily a solid wall against the wind. A permeable windbreaks allows some of the air to pass through.

Application of fertilizer starts at seed planting or seedling transplanting in the field. Mix a handful (five to 10 grams) of a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of each hole before planting. As the papaya seedling grows larger, apply more fertilizer. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as the plants are well established especially when it shows new growth. Apply the same amount at six-week intervals until the plants are one year old. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate to each plant every three months. Apply 450 grams of super phosphate per plant at the start of the rainy season each year. If this application done strictly, it can protect the plants from undergrowth that will affect its good fruiting ability.

Doing weed control by the use of mechanical and chemical means is advisable when the papaya plants are less than one-and-a-half meters in height. Use a hand weeding about one meter around the base of the trunk.

Among the most common pests are red spider mites and fruit fly. Control it with chemicals. To prevent fruit fly, harvest fruits at the mature green stage. The common disease are fruit rot, blossom-end spot. It can be controlled by spraying chemicals. Burn all infected fruits and leaves as soon as the disease is noted.

Handle the fruits properly during the harvesting period and during packing. Remove infected fruits to prevent contaminating the rest. Apply proper fungicides.

Fruits are ready for harvesting when it shows a definite yellow-orange tinge in the apex of blossom-end regions of the plant. It is advisable to pick the fruits when they are still in the firm, semi ripe state to avoid more damages. Use cottom gloves when harvesting so as to lessen thumb and fingers bruising. Harvest by twisting the fruit until its stalks snaps off the plant.