Showing posts with label fertilizing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fertilizing. Show all posts

Monday, April 18, 2016

DRACAENA PRODUCTION GUIDE



        
It is shrubby, herbaceous and evergreen plant. It grows 2 meters tall. As they grow, they will start forming a clump where the suckers are produced. Its stem is slender. It has strap-shaped sheathed leaves. They are flexible arranged in spiral.

The taller the plant the chance of bending is possible. They will bend if there is strong wind. It can be affected also during heavy rainfall because of top heavy foliage unless there is support that can hold them. If there is none, they can easily topple down.

It is best grown in pottery or clay pot. It has been used as ornamental plants. It can be propagated by cutting, the easiest way to raise them. The shoot tip or top cutting will root fast in the planting medium. In 4 weeks’ time there will be a solid foundation of its rooting system. Place in tap water, the tip cutting of the shoots will start to grow in 12 days. The cuttings should be in diagnosed cuts below the node of the plants. See to it that it is healthy, clean and disease-free.

Place layer of wax at the top of the stump were the cuttings was taken for purpose of preventing the entry of water and micro-organisms that will cause disease to the plant.
The dormant buds along the stem will sprout slowly. New shoots will form in a month. After 6 months it can be harvested as shoot tips cuttings. This will be subject to further propagation where the new sets of dormant buds will start to grow.

During your potting, place 3 plants in the same planting medium. It grows denser or thicker after several months after potting. In the pot, it should contain equal measures of sawdust and burst rice hull. Sand and coconut coir dust can also be used. Pure soil has limited use. It should be mix in the same quality with coconut choir dust.

The leaves of the ornamental plant are very sensitive to bright, indirect light. Using fine-mesh net is helpful to reduce heavy light penetration. It can also prevent direct exposure to sunlight. Too much heat will cause leaf burns. The leaves will become yellowish and brownish. The cuttings should be rooted in a spade away light exposure. The new transplanted rooting cutting will remain in the shade more or less 7 days before they are slowly exposed to bright light.

During dry months or hot days, water the rooted cuttings regularly once daily. Don’t use the heavy chlorinated water or salty water as it affects its growth and the color of the leaves.

Fertilize the plants one week after transplanting to clay pot. Use 1 tablespoon complete fertilizer (14-14-14) in every 1 gallon of water. Do it 3 times every month. Additionally, fertilize it with 1 tablespoon urea (46-0-0) every 1 gallon of water once in a month. You also have to use complete controlled release fertilizer with the rate of ½ teaspoon per pot for height of 6-inch plants only 1 every 3 months. You can increase the frequency according to the height and the size of the plants in the pot.

In case of insect infestation, spray the plant systemic insecticide or meticide and spray it to the affected plants. Most infestation is common during dry season. To give complete protection, application of insecticide is necessary to ensure the plant will grow insect-free. Additionally, by washing it regularly, it helps prevent the pests to live in the leaves of the plants.

Always keep the surroundings of the placed cuttings clean free from weeds and other damaging grasses. 

Apply fungicides if you find the presence of fungus in the soil. The disease mostly appeared during wet days. It is important not to expose them heavily in the rain as root rot and stem rot are common causes for the plants to die. If there is weak or unhealthy plants in the pot, reduce its population and remove them. It will only affect the healthy one if allowed to remain in the pot.

If all this given procedures is honestly followed you can have a nursery of good and healthy ornamental most sought by buyers for their landscaping needs and indoor placements.

Monday, July 14, 2014

AMPALAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE



The popularity of ampalaya spread into many regions of the world. The discovery of being best herbal alternative for the treatment of diabetes builds strong position in the markets.
Pharmaceuticals are busy manufacturing ampalaya into powdered capsules and took control in the distribution of their manufactured products. As they were now grown commercially in large scale, the benefit was staggering. The lowly vegetable is now the phenomenal star of all seasons.
The fruits and leaves of ampalaya found to contain iron, calcium, carbohydrates and vitamin B. If regularly included in simple dish, may help to avoid insulin deficiency.
Planting ampalaya needs utmost care, effort and unlimited attention because of the easy susceptibility to nematode. If the soil is mostly deficient, the fungus will create haven in the soil destroying what has been planted there.
It is important to take the soil for analysis to determine the correct soil condition so that if deficient, necessary application of fertilizer is carried out. This will be the first step of preventive action through fertilization.
One way to correct these is to apply basal in-raw compost, animal manure and organic fertilizers in addition to application of tri-calcium phosphate fertilizer.
Select variety that is resistant to nematode infestation. Consider also variety that is short-term to mature 64 days from date of planting the seeds. Ampalaya can be harvested earlier during wet season within 62 days.
In order to increase yield of production, pre-germination of seeds found to have more benefits than direct seeding.  One seedling should be planted 1.50 meters apart in a row. The distance between rows should be 2 meters.  The purpose is to allow penetration and exposure to sunlight because of wider spacing.
Germinated seeds are more economical as it only needs one seedling per hill while in direct seeding, 2 to 3 seeds are needed because not all seeds can germinate in the soil.
Seedlings for transplanting can easily adapt to transplanting stress without affecting the regeneration of the roots.
If the seeds are pre-germinated, it shorten the waiting time compared to direct seeding that will take little more days before it emerge in the soil. It needs one night to pre-germinate the seeds by soaking it with clean water.
To allow germination, spread the seeds in damp cloth for 3 days until the seedcoat is broken. Keep the cloth moist and maintain moisture until the seeds germinate. Transfer the seedlings to prepared hills.
As the seedlings grow longer, prepare trellis made of bamboo poles every 1.5 meters. Then tie the plastic string from pole to pole to serve as climbing medium for the vines.
Prune the tips of the branch of the established seedlings to grow multiple branching and increase yield. The lower node of the branches will grow and bear fruits. It can be done by pinching the main stem inducing growth of primary or secondary laterals.
If it bears many fruits in the stem, you have to reduce it and thin out to few numbers so that the fruits can grow bigger and longer as it controls food competition.
To control pests in the plant, spray it with pesticides to remove the threat that may affect the fruiting. Another way to protect the young fruits is by using paper bags or polyethylene bags for the insects not to damage the fruits or from contamination (toxicity) from pesticide and fungicide.
As normal cultural management, spraying the plant with fungicide may help prevent nematode to infect the roots and root system.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

TARO PRODUCTION GUIDE

It grows on all soil types. Best in deep, well-drained, alluvial loam with high level of water composition. It can easily adapt to moist environment. If grown in upland areas, sufficient water is needed.

Plow and harrow the field until the soil become loose and friable. In a lowland areas, plow and harrow 4 times. Water the field for 2 days before planting to make the soil soft easy for planting. In upland areas, plow and harrow 3 times before planting. In planting, use pointed metal to make a hole to make it easy.

It can be propagated vegetatively by using corms either whole or in pieces, stem cuttings or even cormels. Traditionally, stem cutting is preferable because it can produce higher yield. During wet season planting is done before the start of rainy season. If irrigation facilities is available, planting can be done whole year round.

The purpose of applying fertilizer to the plants is to keep the rapid development of leaves and to ensure a fast enlargement of corms. Using compost as fertilizer is highly recommended. Mixed it thoroughly during land preparation, 1 to 2 weeks before planting. You can use complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 400 kg in one hectare.

Diseases attack the taro leaves. Use handpicking. Apply commercial insecticides at 6-14 days interval. Use it at the rate of 2 tablespoon every 4 gallon of water. In case of nematode attack, use nematicides you can buy in agricultural supply and fumigate the plants.

Taro can be harvested when most of the leaves turn to yellow color. Maturity of plants in lowland areas is about 8 to 12 months. Taro can mature in upland areas 9 months after planting.

Harvest the plants during dry season. Pulled the corm slowly by the use of hands or tools. Protect the corms for any bruises to avoid rotting. It can be stored in a well-ventilated area where circulation of air can keep it dry to prolong many months of storage.

CASHEW PRODUCTION GUIDE

Cashew can survive in a hilly areas where crops cannot grow. It can grow in all types of soil. Planting in a deep loam soil will have a chance for better yield especially if the soil has enough moisture during its period of growth.

It can withstand a long period of drought where rainfall is minimal. It can grow in an areas with too much moisture provided it has a good drainage system. Further, it can grow in low level areas either a rolling or flat areas.

In preparing a planting materials choose an area that has good drainage, well-drained and exposed to sunlight. Good source of water is needed for the better growth of the seedling. Select a good seed, fully matured. Sow the seed in prepared polyethelene plastic bags containing equal portion o fine sand to that of nutrient-rich humus soil. Sow the seeds 10 cm deep in the soil.

The germination period is one week or more. Control the watering of the planted seeds or newly emerging plants. If the seedlings are not growing well, application of urea at the rate of 12 tablespoon in every gallon of water. Good maintenance in caring the seedling is needed until it is ready for planting in a selected location. Plant the seedlings when it is about 50 centimeters in height.

Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow 3 times and do the harrowing according to the required tilling. It is best if the preparation of the land is done before the start of the rainy season. Plant the seedling in a hole with a measurement of 25x25x25 cms (LxWxH) nearest to a month before the scheduled planting.

It is recommended to have a distance of 6x6 meters between the plants. For easy growth of the seedling, plant it at the start of the rainy season. To induce fast root growth and development, remove the cellophane bags and placed it in a holes full of surface soil.

During its period of growth, the planted seedlings should be weeded in a safe distance of one meter in every tree. Remove the weeds at all times. Use dried grasses as mulch to the base of the plants for the purpose of conserving enough moisture in the soil.

A newly planted seedlings needs enought water during the period of its growth. Water it properly according to its usage only. Avoid over-watering to avoid damaging the seedlings. Remove all weeds around the plants. Keep itclean to avoid invitation of pests. Planting other cash crops along the growing plants have a better advantage of keeping the surrounding free from weeds.

When the trees already in its full growth, do the pruning. This is to allow an even distribution of branches and leaves. Regularly remove all diseased branches. Do fertilization by using complete fertilizer (14-14-14) about 350 grams per tree for the seedling. For a young trees during its fruiting stage, use 3 kilograms per tree. Cover the fertilizer properly in the soil around the tree. Place it in a series of small holes 10 centimeters deep.

Apply the necessary control measures for the trees and its fruits. Use pesticides accordinf to manufacturer's recommended dosage.

Cashew trees can bear fruits 3 to 4 years. Full bearing is 12th year and will continue for another 15 years or even more.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

GARLIC PRODUCTION GUIDE

It grows best in areas of mild climate. In the early stages of its growth, it requires a cooler environment. During maturation, a dry weather with moderate high temperature is required.

Garlic can also be grown from sea level or above. It can grow in all types of soil but they prefer a sandy loam, silty loam and clay loam. Consider to have a fertile soil, rich in organic matter. It should be a well-drained place. It is a necessity to maintain a good soil moisture supply during its growth and development.

A hectare area need 1,000 kg. of garlic seedpieces. The land should be properly and thoroughly tilled. It should be well-prepared 6 weeks before planting. Plow the field 3 to 4 times at 7 days interval. The purpose is to improve soil texture. You have to apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Mulch it with 3-5 cm layer of rice straw after planting to conserve moisture and control weeds.

Cut straw and weeds close to the ground after the rice is harvested. The soil should be dry in a desired moisture level. You can construct small canals around the rice paddies to ensure that no standing water will stay in the paddy after an irrigation is made due to heavy rain.

A one hectare area need 7 bags of complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 2 bags of urea (46-0-0), 2 bags of superphosphate (0-18-0) and a bag of muriate of potash (0-0-60). Apply superphosphate and complete fertilizer as basal fertilizer prior to planting. Another combination of urea and muriate of potash 30 days and 70 days after planting.

Irrigate lightly but frequent to provide continuous presence of uniform moisture supply throughout its growing period. Regulate watering during bulb formation to have a proper ripening. When the tops begin to fall over, then stop the irrigation to avoid rotting, reduced quality and watery bulbs.

Select only a healthy planting materials. Control humidity in the field with lower planting density and proper irrigation. Control foliar disease by spraying the proper control measures. Remove all infected leaves. Harvest only mature bulbs. Cure it properly. Maintain good ventilation and air circulation during the curing, packing and storage.

To prevent army worm, used overhead irrigation by spraying water and soap solution. Remove infected leaves. An extract from pepper can be use to spray the plant. The use of ash around the plant can control this pests infestation. Further, you have to manage weeding properly to have sufficient presence of natural enemies against insect pests.

Harvest when it is already 80% of the leaves to turn yellow while started to fold over. The bulbs should be pulled properly from the soil 100 days after planting.

Harvested bulb are to be cured 14 days under dry shade. Proper drying method is needed to reduce the presence of diseases during the storage. This is also to have a good skin color.

After the curing, cut leaves 12 cm from the top of the bulb. You can select a good bulb according to its size and quality of the bulb in a well-ventilated area to keept it dry.

Thursday, February 12, 2009

PINEAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE


Pineapple is a tropical fruit that can be planted to any place most suitable for planting. It can survive even during the period of dry ad wet season. It can grow at sea level. They are suited to be planted in a medium elevation. A sandy loam soil and a soil having a slight acidity will do.

Needing thorough land preparation. Pineapple need a culture period of 15 to 24 months from planting to harvest. Poor land preparation will result in high costs for controlling weeds, and how fruit production due to the weeds. For planting materials, pineapple growers used crowns,slips, and suckers. Slips are the best to use for low plant mortality. Crowns needs curing and chemical treatment to avoid high mortality due to butt rot. It is best to segregate different types of planting materials during the planting.

For farmers planting for local consumption 50,000 plants per hectare is the ideal density.

Due to high population densities and the long culture period, the fertilizer requirements of pineapple per average soil fertility as follows: N-400 to 600 kilograms/hectare, P-120 to 200 kilograms/hectare, K-200 to 300 kilograms/hectare. Soil analysis can enable the planter to accurately determine fertilizers requirement.

Used organic fertilizers such as those that are guano-based or manure-based in combination with organic or chemical fertilizers.Most of elements like irons, zinc, manganese and boron can also be applied in foliar spraying. Dry fertilizer application is practical up to the seventh month of growth of plants. As the pineapple plants grow closer to each other, foliar fertilizer application becomes more practical.

Since pineapple is a shallow-rooted plants, high weed population could take away from its soil nutrients and fertilizer, and consequently greatly reduced production by as much as 50 percent. Chemical weed control is a must if the grower can afford it and if chemicals are available.

Although cheap or in terms of labor cost, hand weeding is actually more expensive and less effective in the early stages of crop growth. When weeds like nutsedge are present in the field, chemical control during the first few months of pineapple growth is the most effective and economical weeding method.

For high fruit tonnage per hectare, pineapple should be induced to flower when the plants are 10 to 12 months, or when they reach an average weight of three kilograms per plant in good cultural management.

Five to five-and-a half months after using flower inducer, pineapple starts ripening. It could enable the grower to attain 80 to 95 percent recovery for the first harvest.

The amount of sunlight received by the crop in a week preceding harvest has a heavy influence or sweetness of the fruit. Pineapple grown under shade and in high elevation are generally of lower brix and higher acidity. Fruits harvested during rainy and cloudy days have higher acidity and lower sugar contents.

Rats are a problem in weedy fields or if the crops is near areas with rats populations. Rats generally damage ripe fruits. To control, use standard rodenticides in bait stations.

Mealy bugs are sucking insects with a life span of 50 to 60 days. They are one of the important pests of pineapple because they are carriers of pineapple wilt, the most damaging disease of pineapple. The insects reside on the base of the leaves, on fruits and at the roots and multiply rapidly during the dry months. To control, treat all planting materials with malathion or diazinon. Spray the crop monthly, or as the population of the mealybugs become apparent.

Grubs and worms are soil insects prevalent in some areas. They attack the roots of the crops. Apply soil insecticides in power or granular form for control.

Fire ants and other ants carry mealybugs. They also attack workers in the fields. These are easily killed by insecticides used for soil insects or mealybugs.

After several years of being planted to pineapple, the field could be nematode-infested. Nematodes are plants parasites that cause stunting and poor growth. For small and medium scale growers, crop rotation is the most practical and cheapest control methods. Nematicides may also be used for controlling the pest.

Butt rot and heart rot are major diseases of pineapple growers take from granted. Most commonly affected plant parts are crowns, if used for planting without proper handling and curing, the presence of standing water during the rainy season also induces butt rot on newly-planted crops. Another factor causing rotting of young pineapple crops in poor land preparation, especially with the presence of undecomposed vegetation in the soil at planting.

Another serious disease that could infect pineapple is pineapple wilt. Infected planting materials and the presence of mealybugs that are the carriers of the disease are its main causes. The symptoms of the disease could be mistaken for poor nutrients intake, such as lack of phosphorus, bud hardly noticed by the untrained farmer. Starting with only a few plants, it seriously infects 30 to 70 percent of the crops if not controlled in its early stages. A virus causes the damages. The only effective control method is to rogue out and burn plants as they show signs of the disease.

After spending in planting and in caring for the crop for up to 20 months, the pinerapple grower needs to properly survey the market in order to contact reliable wholesale buyers. Proper fruit handling from harvest field to market is also important to maintain good quality and avoid bruising and damaging fruits.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

SINTA PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE

Papaya can produce medium size fruits with less than 2 kilos each with yellow flesh .They are sweet and firm.

Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.

Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.

Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.

The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.

Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.

Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.

Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.

The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.

Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.

Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.

Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.