It grows on all soil types. Best in deep, well-drained, alluvial loam with high level of water composition. It can easily adapt to moist environment. If grown in upland areas, sufficient water is needed.
Plow and harrow the field until the soil become loose and friable. In a lowland areas, plow and harrow 4 times. Water the field for 2 days before planting to make the soil soft easy for planting. In upland areas, plow and harrow 3 times before planting. In planting, use pointed metal to make a hole to make it easy.
It can be propagated vegetatively by using corms either whole or in pieces, stem cuttings or even cormels. Traditionally, stem cutting is preferable because it can produce higher yield. During wet season planting is done before the start of rainy season. If irrigation facilities is available, planting can be done whole year round.
The purpose of applying fertilizer to the plants is to keep the rapid development of leaves and to ensure a fast enlargement of corms. Using compost as fertilizer is highly recommended. Mixed it thoroughly during land preparation, 1 to 2 weeks before planting. You can use complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 400 kg in one hectare.
Diseases attack the taro leaves. Use handpicking. Apply commercial insecticides at 6-14 days interval. Use it at the rate of 2 tablespoon every 4 gallon of water. In case of nematode attack, use nematicides you can buy in agricultural supply and fumigate the plants.
Taro can be harvested when most of the leaves turn to yellow color. Maturity of plants in lowland areas is about 8 to 12 months. Taro can mature in upland areas 9 months after planting.
Harvest the plants during dry season. Pulled the corm slowly by the use of hands or tools. Protect the corms for any bruises to avoid rotting. It can be stored in a well-ventilated area where circulation of air can keep it dry to prolong many months of storage.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
SUNFLOWER PRODUCTION GUIDE
The plant can be grown mostly in all types of soil in a dry condition. The yield can greatly improve if irrigation is used during the formation of the bud and during the end of the flowering period.
It can be planted any month of the year but best in January. It is harvestable after 4 months time. It can produce a higher yield if planted in fertile soil and have a better drainage system.
Plant sunflower in a single row 70 cm from the next row. You can also use a double row 45 centimeters spacing between rows and 1 meter every two rows. The depth is 5 centimeters in planting the seeds.
In one hectare land, it needs an estimated 15 kilograms. The quality of the seed should be given to attain a 90% germination rate. Cultivate the land one or two times. Fertilization can increase production and obtain a higher yield. Using NP combination of 120-120 or 120-160 is mostly recommended.
Use a furrow irrigation method to avoid water logging. Do the necessary pest control measures to ensure protection from pests. Proper pesticides application is needed. Some of the diseases noted are damping off, bacterial wilts, leaf spot rust. Proper application of fungicide is needed for better result.
Harvesting can be done by cutting sunflower heads. Use scythe in harvesting.
It can be planted any month of the year but best in January. It is harvestable after 4 months time. It can produce a higher yield if planted in fertile soil and have a better drainage system.
Plant sunflower in a single row 70 cm from the next row. You can also use a double row 45 centimeters spacing between rows and 1 meter every two rows. The depth is 5 centimeters in planting the seeds.
In one hectare land, it needs an estimated 15 kilograms. The quality of the seed should be given to attain a 90% germination rate. Cultivate the land one or two times. Fertilization can increase production and obtain a higher yield. Using NP combination of 120-120 or 120-160 is mostly recommended.
Use a furrow irrigation method to avoid water logging. Do the necessary pest control measures to ensure protection from pests. Proper pesticides application is needed. Some of the diseases noted are damping off, bacterial wilts, leaf spot rust. Proper application of fungicide is needed for better result.
Harvesting can be done by cutting sunflower heads. Use scythe in harvesting.
CASHEW PRODUCTION GUIDE
Cashew can survive in a hilly areas where crops cannot grow. It can grow in all types of soil. Planting in a deep loam soil will have a chance for better yield especially if the soil has enough moisture during its period of growth.
It can withstand a long period of drought where rainfall is minimal. It can grow in an areas with too much moisture provided it has a good drainage system. Further, it can grow in low level areas either a rolling or flat areas.
In preparing a planting materials choose an area that has good drainage, well-drained and exposed to sunlight. Good source of water is needed for the better growth of the seedling. Select a good seed, fully matured. Sow the seed in prepared polyethelene plastic bags containing equal portion o fine sand to that of nutrient-rich humus soil. Sow the seeds 10 cm deep in the soil.
The germination period is one week or more. Control the watering of the planted seeds or newly emerging plants. If the seedlings are not growing well, application of urea at the rate of 12 tablespoon in every gallon of water. Good maintenance in caring the seedling is needed until it is ready for planting in a selected location. Plant the seedlings when it is about 50 centimeters in height.
Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow 3 times and do the harrowing according to the required tilling. It is best if the preparation of the land is done before the start of the rainy season. Plant the seedling in a hole with a measurement of 25x25x25 cms (LxWxH) nearest to a month before the scheduled planting.
It is recommended to have a distance of 6x6 meters between the plants. For easy growth of the seedling, plant it at the start of the rainy season. To induce fast root growth and development, remove the cellophane bags and placed it in a holes full of surface soil.
During its period of growth, the planted seedlings should be weeded in a safe distance of one meter in every tree. Remove the weeds at all times. Use dried grasses as mulch to the base of the plants for the purpose of conserving enough moisture in the soil.
A newly planted seedlings needs enought water during the period of its growth. Water it properly according to its usage only. Avoid over-watering to avoid damaging the seedlings. Remove all weeds around the plants. Keep itclean to avoid invitation of pests. Planting other cash crops along the growing plants have a better advantage of keeping the surrounding free from weeds.
When the trees already in its full growth, do the pruning. This is to allow an even distribution of branches and leaves. Regularly remove all diseased branches. Do fertilization by using complete fertilizer (14-14-14) about 350 grams per tree for the seedling. For a young trees during its fruiting stage, use 3 kilograms per tree. Cover the fertilizer properly in the soil around the tree. Place it in a series of small holes 10 centimeters deep.
Apply the necessary control measures for the trees and its fruits. Use pesticides accordinf to manufacturer's recommended dosage.
Cashew trees can bear fruits 3 to 4 years. Full bearing is 12th year and will continue for another 15 years or even more.
It can withstand a long period of drought where rainfall is minimal. It can grow in an areas with too much moisture provided it has a good drainage system. Further, it can grow in low level areas either a rolling or flat areas.
In preparing a planting materials choose an area that has good drainage, well-drained and exposed to sunlight. Good source of water is needed for the better growth of the seedling. Select a good seed, fully matured. Sow the seed in prepared polyethelene plastic bags containing equal portion o fine sand to that of nutrient-rich humus soil. Sow the seeds 10 cm deep in the soil.
The germination period is one week or more. Control the watering of the planted seeds or newly emerging plants. If the seedlings are not growing well, application of urea at the rate of 12 tablespoon in every gallon of water. Good maintenance in caring the seedling is needed until it is ready for planting in a selected location. Plant the seedlings when it is about 50 centimeters in height.
Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow 3 times and do the harrowing according to the required tilling. It is best if the preparation of the land is done before the start of the rainy season. Plant the seedling in a hole with a measurement of 25x25x25 cms (LxWxH) nearest to a month before the scheduled planting.
It is recommended to have a distance of 6x6 meters between the plants. For easy growth of the seedling, plant it at the start of the rainy season. To induce fast root growth and development, remove the cellophane bags and placed it in a holes full of surface soil.
During its period of growth, the planted seedlings should be weeded in a safe distance of one meter in every tree. Remove the weeds at all times. Use dried grasses as mulch to the base of the plants for the purpose of conserving enough moisture in the soil.
A newly planted seedlings needs enought water during the period of its growth. Water it properly according to its usage only. Avoid over-watering to avoid damaging the seedlings. Remove all weeds around the plants. Keep itclean to avoid invitation of pests. Planting other cash crops along the growing plants have a better advantage of keeping the surrounding free from weeds.
When the trees already in its full growth, do the pruning. This is to allow an even distribution of branches and leaves. Regularly remove all diseased branches. Do fertilization by using complete fertilizer (14-14-14) about 350 grams per tree for the seedling. For a young trees during its fruiting stage, use 3 kilograms per tree. Cover the fertilizer properly in the soil around the tree. Place it in a series of small holes 10 centimeters deep.
Apply the necessary control measures for the trees and its fruits. Use pesticides accordinf to manufacturer's recommended dosage.
Cashew trees can bear fruits 3 to 4 years. Full bearing is 12th year and will continue for another 15 years or even more.
Monday, June 8, 2009
CITRUS PRODUCTION GUIDE
It can grow well in an elevated area with cool environment. Best in sandy soil and full of organic matters. It is not advisable to plant to a water-logged areas because of its sensitivity to too much moisture.
Using marcot system as planting materials can give a better result for fast growth and development compared to seeds. But the problem is shortage in quantity requirements unlike seeds it can easily produced.
When preparing your planting materials, do this during rainy season for higher germination rate. Dig a hole 45 cm wide and 45cm deep. Use compost along with the seedlings during planting. Water the plant early in the morning until the plants can grow by itself with minimal use of water. Use 6 meters distance between plants to avoid congestion.
Fertilization should be done regularly. Use ammonium sulfate about 100 grams to be done every 5 months per tree. On the second year, apply 300 grams per tree every 5 months. During the fruit bearing years (4th year),use amophos or potash about 500 grams per tree. The purpose is to increase the yield.
The correct application of fertilizer is by mixing it with the soil. It is a necessary to cover the soil around the tree by using dry leaves for the purpose of conserving moisture.
Control of pests and diseases is a necessity. Apply the necessary pesticides or fungicides under manufacturer's recommendation for greater result. Such application will ensure that the plant will grow healthy and have a maximum yield.
Experience sbowed that the trees will bear fruit by the 3rd year. With the use of good management during its fruiting years, the trees will have a good harvest.
To protect the fruits from damage, use scissors for convenience. If the fruit trees are high enough to harvest especially during its later years of bearing fruits, use a ladder for easy mobility.
Using marcot system as planting materials can give a better result for fast growth and development compared to seeds. But the problem is shortage in quantity requirements unlike seeds it can easily produced.
When preparing your planting materials, do this during rainy season for higher germination rate. Dig a hole 45 cm wide and 45cm deep. Use compost along with the seedlings during planting. Water the plant early in the morning until the plants can grow by itself with minimal use of water. Use 6 meters distance between plants to avoid congestion.
Fertilization should be done regularly. Use ammonium sulfate about 100 grams to be done every 5 months per tree. On the second year, apply 300 grams per tree every 5 months. During the fruit bearing years (4th year),use amophos or potash about 500 grams per tree. The purpose is to increase the yield.
The correct application of fertilizer is by mixing it with the soil. It is a necessary to cover the soil around the tree by using dry leaves for the purpose of conserving moisture.
Control of pests and diseases is a necessity. Apply the necessary pesticides or fungicides under manufacturer's recommendation for greater result. Such application will ensure that the plant will grow healthy and have a maximum yield.
Experience sbowed that the trees will bear fruit by the 3rd year. With the use of good management during its fruiting years, the trees will have a good harvest.
To protect the fruits from damage, use scissors for convenience. If the fruit trees are high enough to harvest especially during its later years of bearing fruits, use a ladder for easy mobility.
Sunday, May 17, 2009
BROCCOLI PRODUCTION GUIDE
Most varieties grow wild in mid and high temperature during dry season. There are also varieties that grow well in wet season. In low elevation, some varieties can grow in a dry, cool months. They are best in clay loam and sandy loam soil.
Prepare the land thoroughly by plowing and harrowing several times. Furrow measurement in low and mild elevation with a depth of 0.5 meters wide. In high elevations, the beds should be 1 meter wide.
In the seedling production, the width of seedbed should be 1 meter wide. Use manure and rice hull ash mix in the soil in the seedbed. Sow in line about 275g/hectare of seeds. The furrow across the seedbed 10 cm part. Sowing should be thin to prevent damping off. Mulch with rice hull or grass as shade for the sunlight and rain protection. Spray with insecticides when necessary.
Do the transplanting after a week of exposing the seedling fully to sunlight. The seedling are ready 4 weeks from sowing. Water the seedbed and gently uproot the seedlings. Transplanting in a row should be .75 cm apart and .50 meters between plants. Apply basal fertilizer 10 grams per hill (14-14-14). Irrigate the area before and after transplanting.
Mulch with rice straw, rice hulls or plastic to prevent weed growth and to conserve soil mixture. Sidedress with urea (46-0-0) about 1og per plant 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat side-dressing at 35 and 45 days after transplanting. Fertilization can only be done after weeding.
During dry season, be sure to irrigate the field before doing transplanting. Repeat irrigating every 10 days using furrow irrigation. If you use sprinkler, do it 3 times a week to keep the plant healthy and keeping the soil with enough moisture content.
Do the necessary pest and disease control measures during the period of its development. Avoid overcrowding the plants. Control too much watering in seedbeds. Spray fungicide when disease is present. It is better if you can do from time to time a crop rotation to assure the fertility of the soil and control pests and disease infestation.
Avoid monocropping. Remove all debris from previous cropping. Use pesticides to spray the plants.
Harvesting can only be done when the curds are well-formed. Include portion of stems and leaves as protection of the curds. do not expose the harvested plants to full sunlight.
Prepare the land thoroughly by plowing and harrowing several times. Furrow measurement in low and mild elevation with a depth of 0.5 meters wide. In high elevations, the beds should be 1 meter wide.
In the seedling production, the width of seedbed should be 1 meter wide. Use manure and rice hull ash mix in the soil in the seedbed. Sow in line about 275g/hectare of seeds. The furrow across the seedbed 10 cm part. Sowing should be thin to prevent damping off. Mulch with rice hull or grass as shade for the sunlight and rain protection. Spray with insecticides when necessary.
Do the transplanting after a week of exposing the seedling fully to sunlight. The seedling are ready 4 weeks from sowing. Water the seedbed and gently uproot the seedlings. Transplanting in a row should be .75 cm apart and .50 meters between plants. Apply basal fertilizer 10 grams per hill (14-14-14). Irrigate the area before and after transplanting.
Mulch with rice straw, rice hulls or plastic to prevent weed growth and to conserve soil mixture. Sidedress with urea (46-0-0) about 1og per plant 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat side-dressing at 35 and 45 days after transplanting. Fertilization can only be done after weeding.
During dry season, be sure to irrigate the field before doing transplanting. Repeat irrigating every 10 days using furrow irrigation. If you use sprinkler, do it 3 times a week to keep the plant healthy and keeping the soil with enough moisture content.
Do the necessary pest and disease control measures during the period of its development. Avoid overcrowding the plants. Control too much watering in seedbeds. Spray fungicide when disease is present. It is better if you can do from time to time a crop rotation to assure the fertility of the soil and control pests and disease infestation.
Avoid monocropping. Remove all debris from previous cropping. Use pesticides to spray the plants.
Harvesting can only be done when the curds are well-formed. Include portion of stems and leaves as protection of the curds. do not expose the harvested plants to full sunlight.
BUNCHING ONION PRODUCTION GUIDE
As planting medium, use seeds or basal tillers. Use animal manure and rice hull for a 1 meter seedbed. Use rice hull on straw to be placed on top of the seedbed to control harmful organism.
Sow 4 kilos seeds. Line it in rows. Set it across the bed about 5 cm apart. Seed be placed thin and even for the purpose of controlling damping off. Cover it with compost (lightly). Mulch with rice straw. Maintain to have an adequate soil moisture for fast growth and development. Don't use water in excess of what is only required. Over-irrigation can damaged your planting seed. Protect seedbed from direct sunlight and heavy rain. The use of nylon net will do.
Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow it 2 times as well as harrow. A month before land preparation, placed 30 cm layer of rice hull over the area being used. Burn it about 2 weeks. Burnt rice hull will be incorporated during land preparation. The purpose is to improve soil texture. The burnt rice hull can reduce the presence of weeds and diseases.
Apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Make a 1 meter bed. Fertilize and mulch it with rice straw before doing the transplanting. Water the seedbed according to its requirements. Gently uproot seedlings to prevent damage to the root. Apply 7 bags of complete fertilizer as basal. Trim the top portion of the leaves. The purpose is to reduce transpiration. It can increase plant survival during the period of its growth. Transplant in seedbeds with a spacing of 15 cm. Use markers to have a proper distance. Plant deep enough to ensure survival. Protect the basal portion of the plant to avoid damage. Press the soil lightly. The root should be fully protected by the soil. Irrigate the area used according to its requirement before and after transplanting.
Apply 3 bags of urea (46-0-0) 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat it 2 weeks if the fertility of the soil is still very low. During dry season, you have to irrigate daily. Adequate moisture can ensure to have a fast and desirable growth.
To prevent the presence of pests and diseases that can affect the growth of the plants, then do a proper irrigation method by regulating humidity into the planted area. Remove any debris left from previous cropping. Remove all infected leaves to avoid contamination to the whole field. It is better to do a crop rotation for greater effectiveness. Harvest the plants 3 months after planting.
Sow 4 kilos seeds. Line it in rows. Set it across the bed about 5 cm apart. Seed be placed thin and even for the purpose of controlling damping off. Cover it with compost (lightly). Mulch with rice straw. Maintain to have an adequate soil moisture for fast growth and development. Don't use water in excess of what is only required. Over-irrigation can damaged your planting seed. Protect seedbed from direct sunlight and heavy rain. The use of nylon net will do.
Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow it 2 times as well as harrow. A month before land preparation, placed 30 cm layer of rice hull over the area being used. Burn it about 2 weeks. Burnt rice hull will be incorporated during land preparation. The purpose is to improve soil texture. The burnt rice hull can reduce the presence of weeds and diseases.
Apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Make a 1 meter bed. Fertilize and mulch it with rice straw before doing the transplanting. Water the seedbed according to its requirements. Gently uproot seedlings to prevent damage to the root. Apply 7 bags of complete fertilizer as basal. Trim the top portion of the leaves. The purpose is to reduce transpiration. It can increase plant survival during the period of its growth. Transplant in seedbeds with a spacing of 15 cm. Use markers to have a proper distance. Plant deep enough to ensure survival. Protect the basal portion of the plant to avoid damage. Press the soil lightly. The root should be fully protected by the soil. Irrigate the area used according to its requirement before and after transplanting.
Apply 3 bags of urea (46-0-0) 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat it 2 weeks if the fertility of the soil is still very low. During dry season, you have to irrigate daily. Adequate moisture can ensure to have a fast and desirable growth.
To prevent the presence of pests and diseases that can affect the growth of the plants, then do a proper irrigation method by regulating humidity into the planted area. Remove any debris left from previous cropping. Remove all infected leaves to avoid contamination to the whole field. It is better to do a crop rotation for greater effectiveness. Harvest the plants 3 months after planting.
GARLIC PRODUCTION GUIDE
It grows best in areas of mild climate. In the early stages of its growth, it requires a cooler environment. During maturation, a dry weather with moderate high temperature is required.
Garlic can also be grown from sea level or above. It can grow in all types of soil but they prefer a sandy loam, silty loam and clay loam. Consider to have a fertile soil, rich in organic matter. It should be a well-drained place. It is a necessity to maintain a good soil moisture supply during its growth and development.
A hectare area need 1,000 kg. of garlic seedpieces. The land should be properly and thoroughly tilled. It should be well-prepared 6 weeks before planting. Plow the field 3 to 4 times at 7 days interval. The purpose is to improve soil texture. You have to apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Mulch it with 3-5 cm layer of rice straw after planting to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Cut straw and weeds close to the ground after the rice is harvested. The soil should be dry in a desired moisture level. You can construct small canals around the rice paddies to ensure that no standing water will stay in the paddy after an irrigation is made due to heavy rain.
A one hectare area need 7 bags of complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 2 bags of urea (46-0-0), 2 bags of superphosphate (0-18-0) and a bag of muriate of potash (0-0-60). Apply superphosphate and complete fertilizer as basal fertilizer prior to planting. Another combination of urea and muriate of potash 30 days and 70 days after planting.
Irrigate lightly but frequent to provide continuous presence of uniform moisture supply throughout its growing period. Regulate watering during bulb formation to have a proper ripening. When the tops begin to fall over, then stop the irrigation to avoid rotting, reduced quality and watery bulbs.
Select only a healthy planting materials. Control humidity in the field with lower planting density and proper irrigation. Control foliar disease by spraying the proper control measures. Remove all infected leaves. Harvest only mature bulbs. Cure it properly. Maintain good ventilation and air circulation during the curing, packing and storage.
To prevent army worm, used overhead irrigation by spraying water and soap solution. Remove infected leaves. An extract from pepper can be use to spray the plant. The use of ash around the plant can control this pests infestation. Further, you have to manage weeding properly to have sufficient presence of natural enemies against insect pests.
Harvest when it is already 80% of the leaves to turn yellow while started to fold over. The bulbs should be pulled properly from the soil 100 days after planting.
Harvested bulb are to be cured 14 days under dry shade. Proper drying method is needed to reduce the presence of diseases during the storage. This is also to have a good skin color.
After the curing, cut leaves 12 cm from the top of the bulb. You can select a good bulb according to its size and quality of the bulb in a well-ventilated area to keept it dry.
Garlic can also be grown from sea level or above. It can grow in all types of soil but they prefer a sandy loam, silty loam and clay loam. Consider to have a fertile soil, rich in organic matter. It should be a well-drained place. It is a necessity to maintain a good soil moisture supply during its growth and development.
A hectare area need 1,000 kg. of garlic seedpieces. The land should be properly and thoroughly tilled. It should be well-prepared 6 weeks before planting. Plow the field 3 to 4 times at 7 days interval. The purpose is to improve soil texture. You have to apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Mulch it with 3-5 cm layer of rice straw after planting to conserve moisture and control weeds.
Cut straw and weeds close to the ground after the rice is harvested. The soil should be dry in a desired moisture level. You can construct small canals around the rice paddies to ensure that no standing water will stay in the paddy after an irrigation is made due to heavy rain.
A one hectare area need 7 bags of complete fertilizer (14-14-14), 2 bags of urea (46-0-0), 2 bags of superphosphate (0-18-0) and a bag of muriate of potash (0-0-60). Apply superphosphate and complete fertilizer as basal fertilizer prior to planting. Another combination of urea and muriate of potash 30 days and 70 days after planting.
Irrigate lightly but frequent to provide continuous presence of uniform moisture supply throughout its growing period. Regulate watering during bulb formation to have a proper ripening. When the tops begin to fall over, then stop the irrigation to avoid rotting, reduced quality and watery bulbs.
Select only a healthy planting materials. Control humidity in the field with lower planting density and proper irrigation. Control foliar disease by spraying the proper control measures. Remove all infected leaves. Harvest only mature bulbs. Cure it properly. Maintain good ventilation and air circulation during the curing, packing and storage.
To prevent army worm, used overhead irrigation by spraying water and soap solution. Remove infected leaves. An extract from pepper can be use to spray the plant. The use of ash around the plant can control this pests infestation. Further, you have to manage weeding properly to have sufficient presence of natural enemies against insect pests.
Harvest when it is already 80% of the leaves to turn yellow while started to fold over. The bulbs should be pulled properly from the soil 100 days after planting.
Harvested bulb are to be cured 14 days under dry shade. Proper drying method is needed to reduce the presence of diseases during the storage. This is also to have a good skin color.
After the curing, cut leaves 12 cm from the top of the bulb. You can select a good bulb according to its size and quality of the bulb in a well-ventilated area to keept it dry.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
MUNGBEAN PRODUCTION GUIDE
It can be grown during wet and dry seasons except in areas with heavy rainfall. The plants can thrive well in any soil type but yields are better from deep, well-drained and fertile soils. Acidic soils affect the growth of the plants due to lacking of essential nutrients.
Practice complete land preparation in an upland condition. Plow it twice and harrow twice with four passings in one harrowing after plowing. Make furrows 60 and 70 centimeters apart for the dry and wet season.
In the lowland areas, you can plant the mungbeans after the harvest of rice. No need for land preparation in order to conserve the needed moisture before the planting. See to it that the areas for planting is not weedy enough.
Plant in rows to make weeding easier. Space the plant in rows about 55 to 70 centimeters. Fertilization will depend on the kind of soil and the presence of required nutrients. It is recommended to apply fertilizer based on 30-30-30 kilograms of NPK per hectare.
It does not require any irrigation if planted during wet season. Removed all weeds from the field for at least 1-1/2 weeks during emergence of seedlings. You can do handweeding during the first week when the seedling emerged. Do the hilling-up in the third to fourth week. Spot weeding is necessary to remove fast growing weeds. Maybe 2-3 weedings is needed to get a good yield.
They were proned to beanfly damaged and aphids and other pests as the plant matures. Assess the damaged and do the necessary measures by the application of insecticides. If diseases hit the plants then remove the infected plants. Apply fungicides to control disease occurrence.
Harvest mungbean by hand as soon as 80% of the pods are fully dried. Harvest it 60 days from crop emergence. Harvest 2nd time 15 days after the first priming.
Dry pods in the sun then thresh by beating the pods inside a sack with a wooden stick. Dry the seeds further for 3 days until it can reach a moisture level of 12 percent to facilitate longer storage.
Practice complete land preparation in an upland condition. Plow it twice and harrow twice with four passings in one harrowing after plowing. Make furrows 60 and 70 centimeters apart for the dry and wet season.
In the lowland areas, you can plant the mungbeans after the harvest of rice. No need for land preparation in order to conserve the needed moisture before the planting. See to it that the areas for planting is not weedy enough.
Plant in rows to make weeding easier. Space the plant in rows about 55 to 70 centimeters. Fertilization will depend on the kind of soil and the presence of required nutrients. It is recommended to apply fertilizer based on 30-30-30 kilograms of NPK per hectare.
It does not require any irrigation if planted during wet season. Removed all weeds from the field for at least 1-1/2 weeks during emergence of seedlings. You can do handweeding during the first week when the seedling emerged. Do the hilling-up in the third to fourth week. Spot weeding is necessary to remove fast growing weeds. Maybe 2-3 weedings is needed to get a good yield.
They were proned to beanfly damaged and aphids and other pests as the plant matures. Assess the damaged and do the necessary measures by the application of insecticides. If diseases hit the plants then remove the infected plants. Apply fungicides to control disease occurrence.
Harvest mungbean by hand as soon as 80% of the pods are fully dried. Harvest it 60 days from crop emergence. Harvest 2nd time 15 days after the first priming.
Dry pods in the sun then thresh by beating the pods inside a sack with a wooden stick. Dry the seeds further for 3 days until it can reach a moisture level of 12 percent to facilitate longer storage.
BLACK PEPPER PRODUCTION GUIDE
Black pepper can be grown on almost all types of soil but best in loose, well-drained loamy soil. It grows best in warm humid climate and in elevation above sea level. It can be propagated either by seeds or by stem cuttings but the most widely used system is by means of stem cutting.
Plow the land once and harrow twice. Use stake support posts at a distance of 3 meters x 3 meters apart. Plant seedlings at the distance of 35 cm from the post with two seedlings opposite each other. A one hectare land can accomodate 3,150 seedlings. Open spaces between rows maybe utilized for other kind of cash crops as additional income for the planter. It should be planted in one row one meter away from the black pepper rows.
Cultivate whenever necessary. The compactness of the soil, the exposure of the principal roots and the existence of weeds are the requisites for proper cultivation. You have to remove the growing weeds near the base of the plant. You can apply ring weeding. When the seedling reached the height of 2 feet high, nip off the tips of the growing vines to induce branching. Continue until the vines have reached the top of the post. You can prune unnecessary branches to give way to more lateral branches to grow. Pruning is also use for unproductive branches.
Black pepper does not require extensive application of fertilizer, but it is a must to let the plants have fast growth and development especially thus areas with poor soil. Apply 100 grams of complete fertilizer six months after planting. Apply 220 grams of 14-14-14 after one year. After two years, apply 600 grams of complete fertilizer.
Spraying insecticides is one way of controlling the presence of pests to the plants. Apply pesticides at the rate of 1 tablespoon for every gallon of water. Any presence of diseases should be attended carefully. In case of infection, collect and burn infected leaves to avoid contamination.
During harvesting, see if the peppercorns in a spike begin to mature in about 5 months. Pick when it become cherry red or when the color turn from dark green to shiny yellowish green. It can be done by twirling the spike with one hand while the other is holding the peducle. Place the harvested spikes in an open basket. You can harvest once a week during sunny days. Avoid breaking the lateral branches.
After the harvest, removed the ripe berries from the spikes and spread it to the mat for drying. Continue turning the berries during the drying time. When the color turned black, the spikes can be threshed and stored in well dry areas.
Plow the land once and harrow twice. Use stake support posts at a distance of 3 meters x 3 meters apart. Plant seedlings at the distance of 35 cm from the post with two seedlings opposite each other. A one hectare land can accomodate 3,150 seedlings. Open spaces between rows maybe utilized for other kind of cash crops as additional income for the planter. It should be planted in one row one meter away from the black pepper rows.
Cultivate whenever necessary. The compactness of the soil, the exposure of the principal roots and the existence of weeds are the requisites for proper cultivation. You have to remove the growing weeds near the base of the plant. You can apply ring weeding. When the seedling reached the height of 2 feet high, nip off the tips of the growing vines to induce branching. Continue until the vines have reached the top of the post. You can prune unnecessary branches to give way to more lateral branches to grow. Pruning is also use for unproductive branches.
Black pepper does not require extensive application of fertilizer, but it is a must to let the plants have fast growth and development especially thus areas with poor soil. Apply 100 grams of complete fertilizer six months after planting. Apply 220 grams of 14-14-14 after one year. After two years, apply 600 grams of complete fertilizer.
Spraying insecticides is one way of controlling the presence of pests to the plants. Apply pesticides at the rate of 1 tablespoon for every gallon of water. Any presence of diseases should be attended carefully. In case of infection, collect and burn infected leaves to avoid contamination.
During harvesting, see if the peppercorns in a spike begin to mature in about 5 months. Pick when it become cherry red or when the color turn from dark green to shiny yellowish green. It can be done by twirling the spike with one hand while the other is holding the peducle. Place the harvested spikes in an open basket. You can harvest once a week during sunny days. Avoid breaking the lateral branches.
After the harvest, removed the ripe berries from the spikes and spread it to the mat for drying. Continue turning the berries during the drying time. When the color turned black, the spikes can be threshed and stored in well dry areas.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
AMPALAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Seeds are soaked in tap water overnight and kept in moist cloth up to 4 days. Seeds should be washed everyday to prevent fungal growth on moist seeds. Seeds are ready for planting in 4 days.
The field should be well prepared. The soil should be well pulverized and leveled. If the soil pH is lower than 5.8, apply lime one month before sowing at the rate of 1,000 to 3,000 kg. per hectare, depending on soil acidity.
Use plastic mulch to cover the beds. Planting holes are bored into the plastic sheet based on the planting distance. The plastic mulch offers a number of advantages: It can control growth of weeds, it prevent seepage of too much water into the plants during rainy season which result in their death. It preserves soil moisture especially during dry season. It reflects light serving as repellant to insects which hide under the leaves. It prevents soil erosion.
To use plastic mulch, stretch it over the planting with the edges held down by thin bamboo slats, stapled well into the soil every 20 cm. Punch 10-cm diameter holes at 50 cm between plants in the row and 3 meters between rows.
In punching holes on plastic mulch with the use of tin can do the following: Remove top cover of tin can then punch a few small holes at the bottom end of the can. Create handle by tying a wire around the can. Place burning charcoal inside it. Then punch holes on plastic mulch by placing the bottoms of can to the area where the holes should be bored. These holes will serve as the planting holes where the seeds or seedling will grow.
Sow the pre-germinated seeds 2 cm deep at the spacing of 50 cm between plants and 3 meters between rows at one seed per hill. To ensure a full stand of the crop some seeds can be sown in plastic bags simultaneously with the crop in the field. Seedlings grown in the bags can be transplanted into missing hills at the first true leaf stage. Grow the seedlings in bags in full sun with adequate protection from heavy rains. Reduce irrigation 3 days before transplanting. Transplant the seedlings with minimal disturbance of the roots for optimal recovery.
For transplanting, sow pre-germinated seeds in plastic bags which are 4 inches in height and 2 to 2.5 inches in diameter. Put soil mixture (1:1 garden soil and sand). After 15 days, the seedlings are ready for transplanting.
Ampalaya responds well to the use of organic fertilizer. If possible, apply old manure or compost to the fields at the rate of up to 10 tons per hectare. Apply the organic fertilizer in the hills or along the planting rows and mix it well with the soil.
Five to 10 days after emergence, apply 10 bags of 14-14-14 per hectare or about 20 grams per hill. Place the fertilizer at about 10 cm from the base of the plant and cover it with soil. Sidedress three weeks after basal fertilization using two bags of urea (46-0-0) per hectare or about 20 grams per hill. Repeat sidedressing every three weeks.
Start putting up the trellis when the plants are about 15 cm high. Do not postpone trellising because vines climb very fast. A kakawate or ipil-ipil are dug into the soil for around 1.5 to 2 feet. The post are interconnected with GI wire and the side support is used to prevent collapse. Side trellis using fish nets as well as overhead trellis/fishnet or grids of blue strings are put up before vines become too long.
Avoid water logging as well as lack of water. It is recommended to grow ampalaya on raised beds to allow for furrow irrigation during dry season. This will also allow drainage of excess water during the wet season. Irrigate every 5 days.
Harvesting starts 45 to 50 days after seeding. Harvesting can be done twice a week. Harvest early in the morning and protect harvested fruits against the rain, sun and mechanical damage.
The fruitfly lays its eggs on the young fruits. The eggs later hatch into small worms that start eating inside the fruits. Symptoms are deformed fruits, fruits with holes that turn orange or yellow prematurely. To control fruitflies, remove first, all damaged fruits from the field and bury them. Spray only after the removal of the damaged fruits with an insecticide. Wrapping young fruits with newspaper or plastic bags prevent the fruitflies from laying their eggs on the fruits. Wrapping reduces the use of chemical pesticides.
These are very small crawling insects on the lower side of the leaves. Consult your dealer what chemical to use. Spraying at night early 8:00 PM is recommended. This was found to be the most effective time to spray. The insects hide during the daytime and cannot be killed by contact insecticides during the day. If the attack is severe, spray three consecutive nights each time with different chemicals. Neighboring ampalaya plantation should be sprayed at the same time.
These are worms eating shoot tips and leaves. Consult your dealer on what chemical to spray. Several kinds of diseases can attack the plants and cause reduced yields. One of the most common is Downy mildew. Its symptoms are usually small and bigger spots on green and yellowing leaves. Most often, the old leaves are affected. Spraying with fungicide is a preventive measure. Consult your local dealer on what fungicide to use and how often to spray.
The field should be well prepared. The soil should be well pulverized and leveled. If the soil pH is lower than 5.8, apply lime one month before sowing at the rate of 1,000 to 3,000 kg. per hectare, depending on soil acidity.
Use plastic mulch to cover the beds. Planting holes are bored into the plastic sheet based on the planting distance. The plastic mulch offers a number of advantages: It can control growth of weeds, it prevent seepage of too much water into the plants during rainy season which result in their death. It preserves soil moisture especially during dry season. It reflects light serving as repellant to insects which hide under the leaves. It prevents soil erosion.
To use plastic mulch, stretch it over the planting with the edges held down by thin bamboo slats, stapled well into the soil every 20 cm. Punch 10-cm diameter holes at 50 cm between plants in the row and 3 meters between rows.
In punching holes on plastic mulch with the use of tin can do the following: Remove top cover of tin can then punch a few small holes at the bottom end of the can. Create handle by tying a wire around the can. Place burning charcoal inside it. Then punch holes on plastic mulch by placing the bottoms of can to the area where the holes should be bored. These holes will serve as the planting holes where the seeds or seedling will grow.
Sow the pre-germinated seeds 2 cm deep at the spacing of 50 cm between plants and 3 meters between rows at one seed per hill. To ensure a full stand of the crop some seeds can be sown in plastic bags simultaneously with the crop in the field. Seedlings grown in the bags can be transplanted into missing hills at the first true leaf stage. Grow the seedlings in bags in full sun with adequate protection from heavy rains. Reduce irrigation 3 days before transplanting. Transplant the seedlings with minimal disturbance of the roots for optimal recovery.
For transplanting, sow pre-germinated seeds in plastic bags which are 4 inches in height and 2 to 2.5 inches in diameter. Put soil mixture (1:1 garden soil and sand). After 15 days, the seedlings are ready for transplanting.
Ampalaya responds well to the use of organic fertilizer. If possible, apply old manure or compost to the fields at the rate of up to 10 tons per hectare. Apply the organic fertilizer in the hills or along the planting rows and mix it well with the soil.
Five to 10 days after emergence, apply 10 bags of 14-14-14 per hectare or about 20 grams per hill. Place the fertilizer at about 10 cm from the base of the plant and cover it with soil. Sidedress three weeks after basal fertilization using two bags of urea (46-0-0) per hectare or about 20 grams per hill. Repeat sidedressing every three weeks.
Start putting up the trellis when the plants are about 15 cm high. Do not postpone trellising because vines climb very fast. A kakawate or ipil-ipil are dug into the soil for around 1.5 to 2 feet. The post are interconnected with GI wire and the side support is used to prevent collapse. Side trellis using fish nets as well as overhead trellis/fishnet or grids of blue strings are put up before vines become too long.
Avoid water logging as well as lack of water. It is recommended to grow ampalaya on raised beds to allow for furrow irrigation during dry season. This will also allow drainage of excess water during the wet season. Irrigate every 5 days.
Harvesting starts 45 to 50 days after seeding. Harvesting can be done twice a week. Harvest early in the morning and protect harvested fruits against the rain, sun and mechanical damage.
The fruitfly lays its eggs on the young fruits. The eggs later hatch into small worms that start eating inside the fruits. Symptoms are deformed fruits, fruits with holes that turn orange or yellow prematurely. To control fruitflies, remove first, all damaged fruits from the field and bury them. Spray only after the removal of the damaged fruits with an insecticide. Wrapping young fruits with newspaper or plastic bags prevent the fruitflies from laying their eggs on the fruits. Wrapping reduces the use of chemical pesticides.
These are very small crawling insects on the lower side of the leaves. Consult your dealer what chemical to use. Spraying at night early 8:00 PM is recommended. This was found to be the most effective time to spray. The insects hide during the daytime and cannot be killed by contact insecticides during the day. If the attack is severe, spray three consecutive nights each time with different chemicals. Neighboring ampalaya plantation should be sprayed at the same time.
These are worms eating shoot tips and leaves. Consult your dealer on what chemical to spray. Several kinds of diseases can attack the plants and cause reduced yields. One of the most common is Downy mildew. Its symptoms are usually small and bigger spots on green and yellowing leaves. Most often, the old leaves are affected. Spraying with fungicide is a preventive measure. Consult your local dealer on what fungicide to use and how often to spray.
Saturday, April 18, 2009
LONGKONG PRODUCTION GUIDE
This kind of fruit can be grown in flat ground or rolling portion of the land. It is better if the soil is loamy or sandy. It should have a depth of 20 cm. It must be planted in an ideal distance of 6 x 6 meters. In a one hectare land it can be planted to about 280 trees.
When planting, the holes should have a depth enough to support the potted plant. During the planting, the upper level of the ball of soil containing the plant should be about 1-1/2 inch above the level of the soil surface. The soil at the base of the plant should be in the form of mound to prevent the accumulation of water at the base of the tree. Every tree should have an irrigation water supply. It is necessary during the dry season.
Use complete fertilizer 15-15-15 during his early stages of 4 years. Apply at the rate of 500 grams per tree during the first year; 1 kilo during the second year; 1.5 kilos in the 3rd year and 2 kilos in the fourth year. Divide the fertilizer into four split application and bury around the plants every three months. Supplement it with chemical fertilizer with organic fertilizer for greater result. you can split it 3 to 5 application.
In the fifth year when the trees are expected to bear fruit, you must apply fertilizer at the rate of in kilogram equivalent to the age of the tree. Twice a year, apply each tree with animal manure or chicken dung about 20 to 40 kilos.
Start pruning when the plants reach the height of 120-140 cm. Cut the terminal shoot to a height of 80-100 cm. The purpose is to induce the formation of four or more secondary stems within one meter from the ground. Bend the newly formed stems outward to ensure uniform spreading of the stem.
Maintain the height of the plants to 12 to 15 feet by top pruning. When the plants mature, prune it every after harvest to remove all the diseased portion and weak branches and shoots that grows almost parallel to the secondary stem. You have to top-pruned and maintain the height to 15 feet.
In flowering, thinning it should be done to maintain the quality of the fruits, particularly in its uniform size to prevent the development of diseases caused by overcrowded fruits. When the tree undergoes 20 or more days of water stress, if irrigated a lot of flowers will emerge at the main stem and at 2nd and 3rd branches. Flowers should be controlled. Not all should be allowed to develop into fruits.
The fruits are harvested when the fruits in the cluster almost mature from dull green to dull brown. Harvesting is done by carefully cutting the basal end of the stem of the cluster without damaging the stem or the branch.
When planting, the holes should have a depth enough to support the potted plant. During the planting, the upper level of the ball of soil containing the plant should be about 1-1/2 inch above the level of the soil surface. The soil at the base of the plant should be in the form of mound to prevent the accumulation of water at the base of the tree. Every tree should have an irrigation water supply. It is necessary during the dry season.
Use complete fertilizer 15-15-15 during his early stages of 4 years. Apply at the rate of 500 grams per tree during the first year; 1 kilo during the second year; 1.5 kilos in the 3rd year and 2 kilos in the fourth year. Divide the fertilizer into four split application and bury around the plants every three months. Supplement it with chemical fertilizer with organic fertilizer for greater result. you can split it 3 to 5 application.
In the fifth year when the trees are expected to bear fruit, you must apply fertilizer at the rate of in kilogram equivalent to the age of the tree. Twice a year, apply each tree with animal manure or chicken dung about 20 to 40 kilos.
Start pruning when the plants reach the height of 120-140 cm. Cut the terminal shoot to a height of 80-100 cm. The purpose is to induce the formation of four or more secondary stems within one meter from the ground. Bend the newly formed stems outward to ensure uniform spreading of the stem.
Maintain the height of the plants to 12 to 15 feet by top pruning. When the plants mature, prune it every after harvest to remove all the diseased portion and weak branches and shoots that grows almost parallel to the secondary stem. You have to top-pruned and maintain the height to 15 feet.
In flowering, thinning it should be done to maintain the quality of the fruits, particularly in its uniform size to prevent the development of diseases caused by overcrowded fruits. When the tree undergoes 20 or more days of water stress, if irrigated a lot of flowers will emerge at the main stem and at 2nd and 3rd branches. Flowers should be controlled. Not all should be allowed to develop into fruits.
The fruits are harvested when the fruits in the cluster almost mature from dull green to dull brown. Harvesting is done by carefully cutting the basal end of the stem of the cluster without damaging the stem or the branch.
Thursday, February 12, 2009
PINEAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE
Pineapple is a tropical fruit that can be planted to any place most suitable for planting. It can survive even during the period of dry ad wet season. It can grow at sea level. They are suited to be planted in a medium elevation. A sandy loam soil and a soil having a slight acidity will do.
Needing thorough land preparation. Pineapple need a culture period of 15 to 24 months from planting to harvest. Poor land preparation will result in high costs for controlling weeds, and how fruit production due to the weeds. For planting materials, pineapple growers used crowns,slips, and suckers. Slips are the best to use for low plant mortality. Crowns needs curing and chemical treatment to avoid high mortality due to butt rot. It is best to segregate different types of planting materials during the planting.
For farmers planting for local consumption 50,000 plants per hectare is the ideal density.
Due to high population densities and the long culture period, the fertilizer requirements of pineapple per average soil fertility as follows: N-400 to 600 kilograms/hectare, P-120 to 200 kilograms/hectare, K-200 to 300 kilograms/hectare. Soil analysis can enable the planter to accurately determine fertilizers requirement.
Used organic fertilizers such as those that are guano-based or manure-based in combination with organic or chemical fertilizers.Most of elements like irons, zinc, manganese and boron can also be applied in foliar spraying. Dry fertilizer application is practical up to the seventh month of growth of plants. As the pineapple plants grow closer to each other, foliar fertilizer application becomes more practical.
Since pineapple is a shallow-rooted plants, high weed population could take away from its soil nutrients and fertilizer, and consequently greatly reduced production by as much as 50 percent. Chemical weed control is a must if the grower can afford it and if chemicals are available.
Although cheap or in terms of labor cost, hand weeding is actually more expensive and less effective in the early stages of crop growth. When weeds like nutsedge are present in the field, chemical control during the first few months of pineapple growth is the most effective and economical weeding method.
For high fruit tonnage per hectare, pineapple should be induced to flower when the plants are 10 to 12 months, or when they reach an average weight of three kilograms per plant in good cultural management.
Five to five-and-a half months after using flower inducer, pineapple starts ripening. It could enable the grower to attain 80 to 95 percent recovery for the first harvest.
The amount of sunlight received by the crop in a week preceding harvest has a heavy influence or sweetness of the fruit. Pineapple grown under shade and in high elevation are generally of lower brix and higher acidity. Fruits harvested during rainy and cloudy days have higher acidity and lower sugar contents.
Rats are a problem in weedy fields or if the crops is near areas with rats populations. Rats generally damage ripe fruits. To control, use standard rodenticides in bait stations.
Mealy bugs are sucking insects with a life span of 50 to 60 days. They are one of the important pests of pineapple because they are carriers of pineapple wilt, the most damaging disease of pineapple. The insects reside on the base of the leaves, on fruits and at the roots and multiply rapidly during the dry months. To control, treat all planting materials with malathion or diazinon. Spray the crop monthly, or as the population of the mealybugs become apparent.
Grubs and worms are soil insects prevalent in some areas. They attack the roots of the crops. Apply soil insecticides in power or granular form for control.
Fire ants and other ants carry mealybugs. They also attack workers in the fields. These are easily killed by insecticides used for soil insects or mealybugs.
After several years of being planted to pineapple, the field could be nematode-infested. Nematodes are plants parasites that cause stunting and poor growth. For small and medium scale growers, crop rotation is the most practical and cheapest control methods. Nematicides may also be used for controlling the pest.
Butt rot and heart rot are major diseases of pineapple growers take from granted. Most commonly affected plant parts are crowns, if used for planting without proper handling and curing, the presence of standing water during the rainy season also induces butt rot on newly-planted crops. Another factor causing rotting of young pineapple crops in poor land preparation, especially with the presence of undecomposed vegetation in the soil at planting.
Another serious disease that could infect pineapple is pineapple wilt. Infected planting materials and the presence of mealybugs that are the carriers of the disease are its main causes. The symptoms of the disease could be mistaken for poor nutrients intake, such as lack of phosphorus, bud hardly noticed by the untrained farmer. Starting with only a few plants, it seriously infects 30 to 70 percent of the crops if not controlled in its early stages. A virus causes the damages. The only effective control method is to rogue out and burn plants as they show signs of the disease.
After spending in planting and in caring for the crop for up to 20 months, the pinerapple grower needs to properly survey the market in order to contact reliable wholesale buyers. Proper fruit handling from harvest field to market is also important to maintain good quality and avoid bruising and damaging fruits.
Monday, February 9, 2009
GUAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE
Guava has a shorter gestation period than most fruit trees. The guava tree starts flowering as early as eight months from planting the seedlings in the fields. With proper care, each tree may yield about 15 kilos of fruits during the first year. By the second year, the tree could yield 45 kilos and in succeeding years, it could produce 60 kilos or more.
Good quality fruits demands high price. The small fruits or those with scars which resulted from fruition caused by the wind during the fruits' formative stages are cheaper. There are usually made into guapple pie or into jam.
One can start with a few mother trees from which subsequent planting materials are propagated. Guavas can be propagated by seed or through marcotting and grafting.
The guava can be made fruitful throughout the year as long as it is irrigated during the summer months. The fruits responds to pruning. When the terminal buds is pinched, new branches are initiated and flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will develop into full-sized fruits.
During the first year, the young plants are fertilized soon after planting with one half kilo of 14-14-14 per tree. A month later, 15 grams of urea is applied per tree.
Eight months after planting, when the trees start to flower, 300 grams of fertilizers is applied. This is a mixture of 16-20-0 and 0-0-60, applied usually in the early part of the rainy season and then before the end of the rainy season.
In the second year, the same kind of mixture is applied, and two times yearly. This time, the dose is one kilo per tree. In succeeding year, the dose is proportionately increased.
The trees should be sprayed monthly with insecticide and fungicide, especially when they are fruiting.
To protect the fruits from fruit fly, the developing fruits are wrapped with plastic bags when they are about the size of an eggs. The fruits are sprayed before they are wrapped.
To produce big fruits, some of the young fruits should be removed from the tree. To produce fruits that will weigh about a kilo each, allow only fruits to develop in a year-old tree.
While very big fruits look impressive, many growers prefer to produce fruits that weigh 300 to 350 grams each This size seems to be the most salable in the market.
Good quality fruits demands high price. The small fruits or those with scars which resulted from fruition caused by the wind during the fruits' formative stages are cheaper. There are usually made into guapple pie or into jam.
One can start with a few mother trees from which subsequent planting materials are propagated. Guavas can be propagated by seed or through marcotting and grafting.
The guava can be made fruitful throughout the year as long as it is irrigated during the summer months. The fruits responds to pruning. When the terminal buds is pinched, new branches are initiated and flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will develop into full-sized fruits.
During the first year, the young plants are fertilized soon after planting with one half kilo of 14-14-14 per tree. A month later, 15 grams of urea is applied per tree.
Eight months after planting, when the trees start to flower, 300 grams of fertilizers is applied. This is a mixture of 16-20-0 and 0-0-60, applied usually in the early part of the rainy season and then before the end of the rainy season.
In the second year, the same kind of mixture is applied, and two times yearly. This time, the dose is one kilo per tree. In succeeding year, the dose is proportionately increased.
The trees should be sprayed monthly with insecticide and fungicide, especially when they are fruiting.
To protect the fruits from fruit fly, the developing fruits are wrapped with plastic bags when they are about the size of an eggs. The fruits are sprayed before they are wrapped.
To produce big fruits, some of the young fruits should be removed from the tree. To produce fruits that will weigh about a kilo each, allow only fruits to develop in a year-old tree.
While very big fruits look impressive, many growers prefer to produce fruits that weigh 300 to 350 grams each This size seems to be the most salable in the market.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
DRAGON FRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE
The variety from Vietnam have white flesh and is self compatible. There are also varieties with red flesh and yellow-fruited ones. The flowers open at night and can be used as an ornamental. The fruits are attractive bright red or pink with greenish scales or wings. The flesh is sweet, white and creamy dotted uniformly with small black seeds that has distinct flavor.
Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.
It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.
Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.
At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.
It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.
Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.
Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.
Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.
Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.
Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.
Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.
Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.
It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.
Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.
At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.
It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.
Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.
Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.
Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.
Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.
Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.
Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
SINTA PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Papaya can produce medium size fruits with less than 2 kilos each with yellow flesh .They are sweet and firm.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Friday, January 30, 2009
JACKFRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE
It is an off-season fruits. The producer can remove all the flowers that appear in December and January. New flowers will come out in July or August can be harvested in November and December. To produce multiple trunks, usually six or more main branches, the main trunk is cut 50 centimeters above the ground. This is to encourage the formation of multiple branches. This open the center of the tree for better light penetration and air movement. During maturity, regular pruning is carried out to remove sprouts and diseased branches. Some of the trees are top cut higher than one meter above the ground and branches are formed spreading all around. All the big branches are potential bearers.
It needs adequate water to develop properly, especially during the first few years from planting. At the same time, it requires good drainage. During the first two years, watering should be done regularly because jack fruit is sensitive to water stress. The plants should be watered whenever a 1cm depth of the soil surface around it become dry. Water is also needed during its mature stage to promote heavy flowering and fruit set. Adequate moisture is also needed for proper fruit development and for better quality fruits.
There are instances when there is overcrowding of fruits. Some of the fruits may be harvested when they are still young and sold for vegetable purposes. When the excess fruits are thinned out, the remaining fruits will develop more properly.
While the fruit tree grows in almost all kinds of soil, high yields are obtained in well-drained, deep, alluvial soils. It is planted at a distance of either 8m x 8m or 10m x 10m The plants are either inter-crop with other fruit trees or planted as a mono crop.
It is recommended that the application of 11 kilos of chemical fertilizer per tree of bearing age annually. This amount is split into three applications. Four kilos of 9-24-24 are applied before flowering: 4 kilos of 15-15-15 after fruits setting: and 3 kilos of 8-24-24 a month before fruit maturity.
The above fertilizers are supplemented by the application of decayed animal manure at the rate of 30 to 50 kilos per tree per year. Foliar fertilizer (10-52-15), is also sprayed three times a year at a fruiting stage.
Fruit borer and fruitfly are common pests of jackfruit. The damage of these pests could be controlled by bagging the fruits individually when they are about 250 to 300 grams. Leafhopper is controlled by insecticides. The most destructive disease of jackfruit is phytophthora which attacks from the ground. The disease can be treated with fungicides.
The disease can also be minimized by wider spacing, removal of low-growing branches, regular weeding, and keeping the trees well-nourished and adequately watered.
It needs adequate water to develop properly, especially during the first few years from planting. At the same time, it requires good drainage. During the first two years, watering should be done regularly because jack fruit is sensitive to water stress. The plants should be watered whenever a 1cm depth of the soil surface around it become dry. Water is also needed during its mature stage to promote heavy flowering and fruit set. Adequate moisture is also needed for proper fruit development and for better quality fruits.
There are instances when there is overcrowding of fruits. Some of the fruits may be harvested when they are still young and sold for vegetable purposes. When the excess fruits are thinned out, the remaining fruits will develop more properly.
While the fruit tree grows in almost all kinds of soil, high yields are obtained in well-drained, deep, alluvial soils. It is planted at a distance of either 8m x 8m or 10m x 10m The plants are either inter-crop with other fruit trees or planted as a mono crop.
It is recommended that the application of 11 kilos of chemical fertilizer per tree of bearing age annually. This amount is split into three applications. Four kilos of 9-24-24 are applied before flowering: 4 kilos of 15-15-15 after fruits setting: and 3 kilos of 8-24-24 a month before fruit maturity.
The above fertilizers are supplemented by the application of decayed animal manure at the rate of 30 to 50 kilos per tree per year. Foliar fertilizer (10-52-15), is also sprayed three times a year at a fruiting stage.
Fruit borer and fruitfly are common pests of jackfruit. The damage of these pests could be controlled by bagging the fruits individually when they are about 250 to 300 grams. Leafhopper is controlled by insecticides. The most destructive disease of jackfruit is phytophthora which attacks from the ground. The disease can be treated with fungicides.
The disease can also be minimized by wider spacing, removal of low-growing branches, regular weeding, and keeping the trees well-nourished and adequately watered.
Monday, January 26, 2009
HAIRY LYCHEE PRODUCTION GUIDE
It is known as Rambutan, Nephilium lappaceum gained much popularity and acceptance in its introduction to the country. This spiny fruit is available only during August to October and quite expensive.
You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.
It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.
Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.
A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.
For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.
The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.
In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.
Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.
Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.
During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.
Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.
Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.
Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.
Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.
You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.
It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.
Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.
A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.
Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.
For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.
The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.
In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.
Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.
Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.
During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.
Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.
Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.
Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.
Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Experience showed that papaya grows best in light and well-dried soils. It should be rich in organic matter for the plant to grow faster. There are some limitation.They do not grow well on certain clay soil which lack of good aeration and are poorly drained with water. Those papaya grown in that kind of soil become spindly and stunted, and produce less fruits during the duration of their fruiting season. Sub-soiling is necessary. Papaya will grow on any type of soil as long as this is not poorly drained or does not easily dry up during hot season.
The soil must have a good supply of available nutrients. This nutrients is important for their growth and development. Papaya can grow best on soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.0.
Papaya is a tropical fruit crop. It prefers warm areas with abundant rainfall or good irrigation. An average daily temperature ranging from 21' to 33'C is ideal for robust growth. It can tolerate higher temperatures. The soil should have adequate moisture. In cool weather condition it reduces growth and yield. further, it can affect its fruit flavor. Too much coolness and humid nights can cause the fruits to mature slowly and even has low quality fruits.
In order to provide suitable soil condition, thoroughly prepared the area to be planted with papaya. Clean the field, plow and harrow alternately two or three times to kill the weeds and provides good internal drainage. Plant at distances ranging from two to three meters, depending on the variety. This is to avoid close concentration of each tree.
It can be planted by direct seeding in the field. Place five or more seeds in each hole. Cover with one fourth inch of soil. If you sow fresh seeds, it will germinate 10 to 14 days after planting. Seeds germinate better and faster by removing the gelatinous envelopes surrounding them. You can use your fingers. It can be done easily.
Do the thinning of the seedlings planted directly in the field four to six weeks after emergence. Leave only three of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save the plants that are spaced far enough from one another. The purpose is to avoid overcrowding hampering its growth.
Do the second and final thinning in the field when flowers appear. This is usually four to six months after seed germination. At this stage, leave only three trees to the planting hole. This is the ideal thinning method.
Establish a windbreaks. It is necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. It can control damages to the full grown trees. Space the strips of windbreaks at a distance of 21 to 29 times the height of windbreaks trees. If the winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.
to the trees. A good windbreak is not necessarily a solid wall against the wind. A permeable windbreaks allows some of the air to pass through.
Application of fertilizer starts at seed planting or seedling transplanting in the field. Mix a handful (five to 10 grams) of a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of each hole before planting. As the papaya seedling grows larger, apply more fertilizer. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as the plants are well established especially when it shows new growth. Apply the same amount at six-week intervals until the plants are one year old. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate to each plant every three months. Apply 450 grams of super phosphate per plant at the start of the rainy season each year. If this application done strictly, it can protect the plants from undergrowth that will affect its good fruiting ability.
Doing weed control by the use of mechanical and chemical means is advisable when the papaya plants are less than one-and-a-half meters in height. Use a hand weeding about one meter around the base of the trunk.
Among the most common pests are red spider mites and fruit fly. Control it with chemicals. To prevent fruit fly, harvest fruits at the mature green stage. The common disease are fruit rot, blossom-end spot. It can be controlled by spraying chemicals. Burn all infected fruits and leaves as soon as the disease is noted.
Handle the fruits properly during the harvesting period and during packing. Remove infected fruits to prevent contaminating the rest. Apply proper fungicides.
Fruits are ready for harvesting when it shows a definite yellow-orange tinge in the apex of blossom-end regions of the plant. It is advisable to pick the fruits when they are still in the firm, semi ripe state to avoid more damages. Use cottom gloves when harvesting so as to lessen thumb and fingers bruising. Harvest by twisting the fruit until its stalks snaps off the plant.
The soil must have a good supply of available nutrients. This nutrients is important for their growth and development. Papaya can grow best on soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.0.
Papaya is a tropical fruit crop. It prefers warm areas with abundant rainfall or good irrigation. An average daily temperature ranging from 21' to 33'C is ideal for robust growth. It can tolerate higher temperatures. The soil should have adequate moisture. In cool weather condition it reduces growth and yield. further, it can affect its fruit flavor. Too much coolness and humid nights can cause the fruits to mature slowly and even has low quality fruits.
In order to provide suitable soil condition, thoroughly prepared the area to be planted with papaya. Clean the field, plow and harrow alternately two or three times to kill the weeds and provides good internal drainage. Plant at distances ranging from two to three meters, depending on the variety. This is to avoid close concentration of each tree.
It can be planted by direct seeding in the field. Place five or more seeds in each hole. Cover with one fourth inch of soil. If you sow fresh seeds, it will germinate 10 to 14 days after planting. Seeds germinate better and faster by removing the gelatinous envelopes surrounding them. You can use your fingers. It can be done easily.
Do the thinning of the seedlings planted directly in the field four to six weeks after emergence. Leave only three of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save the plants that are spaced far enough from one another. The purpose is to avoid overcrowding hampering its growth.
Do the second and final thinning in the field when flowers appear. This is usually four to six months after seed germination. At this stage, leave only three trees to the planting hole. This is the ideal thinning method.
Establish a windbreaks. It is necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. It can control damages to the full grown trees. Space the strips of windbreaks at a distance of 21 to 29 times the height of windbreaks trees. If the winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.
to the trees. A good windbreak is not necessarily a solid wall against the wind. A permeable windbreaks allows some of the air to pass through.
Application of fertilizer starts at seed planting or seedling transplanting in the field. Mix a handful (five to 10 grams) of a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of each hole before planting. As the papaya seedling grows larger, apply more fertilizer. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as the plants are well established especially when it shows new growth. Apply the same amount at six-week intervals until the plants are one year old. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate to each plant every three months. Apply 450 grams of super phosphate per plant at the start of the rainy season each year. If this application done strictly, it can protect the plants from undergrowth that will affect its good fruiting ability.
Doing weed control by the use of mechanical and chemical means is advisable when the papaya plants are less than one-and-a-half meters in height. Use a hand weeding about one meter around the base of the trunk.
Among the most common pests are red spider mites and fruit fly. Control it with chemicals. To prevent fruit fly, harvest fruits at the mature green stage. The common disease are fruit rot, blossom-end spot. It can be controlled by spraying chemicals. Burn all infected fruits and leaves as soon as the disease is noted.
Handle the fruits properly during the harvesting period and during packing. Remove infected fruits to prevent contaminating the rest. Apply proper fungicides.
Fruits are ready for harvesting when it shows a definite yellow-orange tinge in the apex of blossom-end regions of the plant. It is advisable to pick the fruits when they are still in the firm, semi ripe state to avoid more damages. Use cottom gloves when harvesting so as to lessen thumb and fingers bruising. Harvest by twisting the fruit until its stalks snaps off the plant.
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