BLACK PEPPER PRODUCTION GUIDE

Black pepper can be grown on almost all types of soil but best in loose, well-drained loamy soil. It grows best in warm humid climate and in elevation above sea level. It can be propagated either by seeds or by stem cuttings but the most widely used system is by means of stem cutting.

Plow the land once and harrow twice. Use stake support posts at a distance of 3 meters x 3 meters apart. Plant seedlings at the distance of 35 cm from the post with two seedlings opposite each other. A one hectare land can accomodate 3,150 seedlings. Open spaces between rows maybe utilized for other kind of cash crops as additional income for the planter. It should be planted in one row one meter away from the black pepper rows.

Cultivate whenever necessary. The compactness of the soil, the exposure of the principal roots and the existence of weeds are the requisites for proper cultivation. You have to remove the growing weeds near the base of the plant. You can apply ring weeding. When the seedling reached the height of 2 feet high, nip off the tips of the growing vines to induce branching. Continue until the vines have reached the top of the post. You can prune unnecessary branches to give way to more lateral branches to grow. Pruning is also use for unproductive branches.

Black pepper does not require extensive application of fertilizer, but it is a must to let the plants have fast growth and development especially thus areas with poor soil. Apply 100 grams of complete fertilizer six months after planting. Apply 220 grams of 14-14-14 after one year. After two years, apply 600 grams of complete fertilizer.

Spraying insecticides is one way of controlling the presence of pests to the plants. Apply pesticides at the rate of 1 tablespoon for every gallon of water. Any presence of diseases should be attended carefully. In case of infection, collect and burn infected leaves to avoid contamination.

During harvesting, see if the peppercorns in a spike begin to mature in about 5 months. Pick when it become cherry red or when the color turn from dark green to shiny yellowish green. It can be done by twirling the spike with one hand while the other is holding the peducle. Place the harvested spikes in an open basket. You can harvest once a week during sunny days. Avoid breaking the lateral branches.

After the harvest, removed the ripe berries from the spikes and spread it to the mat for drying. Continue turning the berries during the drying time. When the color turned black, the spikes can be threshed and stored in well dry areas.

DRAGON FRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE

The variety from Vietnam have white flesh and is self compatible. There are also varieties with red flesh and yellow-fruited ones. The flowers open at night and can be used as an ornamental. The fruits are attractive bright red or pink with greenish scales or wings. The flesh is sweet, white and creamy dotted uniformly with small black seeds that has distinct flavor.

Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.

It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.

Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.

At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.

It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.

Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.

Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.

Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.

Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.

Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.

Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.