Most varieties grow wild in mid and high temperature during dry season. There are also varieties that grow well in wet season. In low elevation, some varieties can grow in a dry, cool months. They are best in clay loam and sandy loam soil.
Prepare the land thoroughly by plowing and harrowing several times. Furrow measurement in low and mild elevation with a depth of 0.5 meters wide. In high elevations, the beds should be 1 meter wide.
In the seedling production, the width of seedbed should be 1 meter wide. Use manure and rice hull ash mix in the soil in the seedbed. Sow in line about 275g/hectare of seeds. The furrow across the seedbed 10 cm part. Sowing should be thin to prevent damping off. Mulch with rice hull or grass as shade for the sunlight and rain protection. Spray with insecticides when necessary.
Do the transplanting after a week of exposing the seedling fully to sunlight. The seedling are ready 4 weeks from sowing. Water the seedbed and gently uproot the seedlings. Transplanting in a row should be .75 cm apart and .50 meters between plants. Apply basal fertilizer 10 grams per hill (14-14-14). Irrigate the area before and after transplanting.
Mulch with rice straw, rice hulls or plastic to prevent weed growth and to conserve soil mixture. Sidedress with urea (46-0-0) about 1og per plant 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat side-dressing at 35 and 45 days after transplanting. Fertilization can only be done after weeding.
During dry season, be sure to irrigate the field before doing transplanting. Repeat irrigating every 10 days using furrow irrigation. If you use sprinkler, do it 3 times a week to keep the plant healthy and keeping the soil with enough moisture content.
Do the necessary pest and disease control measures during the period of its development. Avoid overcrowding the plants. Control too much watering in seedbeds. Spray fungicide when disease is present. It is better if you can do from time to time a crop rotation to assure the fertility of the soil and control pests and disease infestation.
Avoid monocropping. Remove all debris from previous cropping. Use pesticides to spray the plants.
Harvesting can only be done when the curds are well-formed. Include portion of stems and leaves as protection of the curds. do not expose the harvested plants to full sunlight.
Showing posts with label transplanting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label transplanting. Show all posts
Sunday, May 17, 2009
BUNCHING ONION PRODUCTION GUIDE
As planting medium, use seeds or basal tillers. Use animal manure and rice hull for a 1 meter seedbed. Use rice hull on straw to be placed on top of the seedbed to control harmful organism.
Sow 4 kilos seeds. Line it in rows. Set it across the bed about 5 cm apart. Seed be placed thin and even for the purpose of controlling damping off. Cover it with compost (lightly). Mulch with rice straw. Maintain to have an adequate soil moisture for fast growth and development. Don't use water in excess of what is only required. Over-irrigation can damaged your planting seed. Protect seedbed from direct sunlight and heavy rain. The use of nylon net will do.
Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow it 2 times as well as harrow. A month before land preparation, placed 30 cm layer of rice hull over the area being used. Burn it about 2 weeks. Burnt rice hull will be incorporated during land preparation. The purpose is to improve soil texture. The burnt rice hull can reduce the presence of weeds and diseases.
Apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Make a 1 meter bed. Fertilize and mulch it with rice straw before doing the transplanting. Water the seedbed according to its requirements. Gently uproot seedlings to prevent damage to the root. Apply 7 bags of complete fertilizer as basal. Trim the top portion of the leaves. The purpose is to reduce transpiration. It can increase plant survival during the period of its growth. Transplant in seedbeds with a spacing of 15 cm. Use markers to have a proper distance. Plant deep enough to ensure survival. Protect the basal portion of the plant to avoid damage. Press the soil lightly. The root should be fully protected by the soil. Irrigate the area used according to its requirement before and after transplanting.
Apply 3 bags of urea (46-0-0) 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat it 2 weeks if the fertility of the soil is still very low. During dry season, you have to irrigate daily. Adequate moisture can ensure to have a fast and desirable growth.
To prevent the presence of pests and diseases that can affect the growth of the plants, then do a proper irrigation method by regulating humidity into the planted area. Remove any debris left from previous cropping. Remove all infected leaves to avoid contamination to the whole field. It is better to do a crop rotation for greater effectiveness. Harvest the plants 3 months after planting.
Sow 4 kilos seeds. Line it in rows. Set it across the bed about 5 cm apart. Seed be placed thin and even for the purpose of controlling damping off. Cover it with compost (lightly). Mulch with rice straw. Maintain to have an adequate soil moisture for fast growth and development. Don't use water in excess of what is only required. Over-irrigation can damaged your planting seed. Protect seedbed from direct sunlight and heavy rain. The use of nylon net will do.
Prepare the land thoroughly. Plow it 2 times as well as harrow. A month before land preparation, placed 30 cm layer of rice hull over the area being used. Burn it about 2 weeks. Burnt rice hull will be incorporated during land preparation. The purpose is to improve soil texture. The burnt rice hull can reduce the presence of weeds and diseases.
Apply animal manure before the bed preparation. Make a 1 meter bed. Fertilize and mulch it with rice straw before doing the transplanting. Water the seedbed according to its requirements. Gently uproot seedlings to prevent damage to the root. Apply 7 bags of complete fertilizer as basal. Trim the top portion of the leaves. The purpose is to reduce transpiration. It can increase plant survival during the period of its growth. Transplant in seedbeds with a spacing of 15 cm. Use markers to have a proper distance. Plant deep enough to ensure survival. Protect the basal portion of the plant to avoid damage. Press the soil lightly. The root should be fully protected by the soil. Irrigate the area used according to its requirement before and after transplanting.
Apply 3 bags of urea (46-0-0) 3 weeks after transplanting. Repeat it 2 weeks if the fertility of the soil is still very low. During dry season, you have to irrigate daily. Adequate moisture can ensure to have a fast and desirable growth.
To prevent the presence of pests and diseases that can affect the growth of the plants, then do a proper irrigation method by regulating humidity into the planted area. Remove any debris left from previous cropping. Remove all infected leaves to avoid contamination to the whole field. It is better to do a crop rotation for greater effectiveness. Harvest the plants 3 months after planting.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
DRAGON FRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE
The variety from Vietnam have white flesh and is self compatible. There are also varieties with red flesh and yellow-fruited ones. The flowers open at night and can be used as an ornamental. The fruits are attractive bright red or pink with greenish scales or wings. The flesh is sweet, white and creamy dotted uniformly with small black seeds that has distinct flavor.
Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.
It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.
Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.
At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.
It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.
Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.
Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.
Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.
Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.
Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.
Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.
Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.
It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.
Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.
At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.
It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.
Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.
Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.
Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.
Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.
Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.
Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
SINTA PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE
Papaya can produce medium size fruits with less than 2 kilos each with yellow flesh .They are sweet and firm.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.
Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.
Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.
The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.
Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.
Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.
Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.
The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.
Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.
Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.
Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.
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