PINEAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE

Pineapple is a tropical fruit that can be planted to any place most suitable for planting. It can survive even during the period of dry ad wet season. It can grow at sea level. They are suited to be planted in a medium elevation. A sandy loam soil and a soil having a slight acidity will do.

Needing thorough land preparation. Pineapple need a culture period of 15 to 24 months from planting to harvest. Poor land preparation will result in high costs for controlling weeds, and how fruit production due to the weeds. For planting materials, pineapple growers used crowns,slips, and suckers. Slips are the best to use for low plant mortality. Crowns needs curing and chemical treatment to avoid high mortality due to butt rot. It is best to segregate different types of planting materials during the planting.

For farmers planting for local consumption 50,000 plants per hectare is the ideal density.

Due to high population densities and the long culture period, the fertilizer requirements of pineapple per average soil fertility as follows: N-400 to 600 kilograms/hectare, P-120 to 200 kilograms/hectare, K-200 to 300 kilograms/hectare. Soil analysis can enable the planter to accurately determine fertilizers requirement.

Used organic fertilizers such as those that are guano-based or manure-based in combination with organic or chemical fertilizers.Most of elements like irons, zinc, manganese and boron can also be applied in foliar spraying. Dry fertilizer application is practical up to the seventh month of growth of plants. As the pineapple plants grow closer to each other, foliar fertilizer application becomes more practical.

Since pineapple is a shallow-rooted plants, high weed population could take away from its soil nutrients and fertilizer, and consequently greatly reduced production by as much as 50 percent. Chemical weed control is a must if the grower can afford it and if chemicals are available.

Although cheap or in terms of labor cost, hand weeding is actually more expensive and less effective in the early stages of crop growth. When weeds like nutsedge are present in the field, chemical control during the first few months of pineapple growth is the most effective and economical weeding method.

For high fruit tonnage per hectare, pineapple should be induced to flower when the plants are 10 to 12 months, or when they reach an average weight of three kilograms per plant in good cultural management.

Five to five-and-a half months after using flower inducer, pineapple starts ripening. It could enable the grower to attain 80 to 95 percent recovery for the first harvest.

The amount of sunlight received by the crop in a week preceding harvest has a heavy influence or sweetness of the fruit. Pineapple grown under shade and in high elevation are generally of lower brix and higher acidity. Fruits harvested during rainy and cloudy days have higher acidity and lower sugar contents.

Rats are a problem in weedy fields or if the crops is near areas with rats populations. Rats generally damage ripe fruits. To control, use standard rodenticides in bait stations.

Mealy bugs are sucking insects with a life span of 50 to 60 days. They are one of the important pests of pineapple because they are carriers of pineapple wilt, the most damaging disease of pineapple. The insects reside on the base of the leaves, on fruits and at the roots and multiply rapidly during the dry months. To control, treat all planting materials with malathion or diazinon. Spray the crop monthly, or as the population of the mealybugs become apparent.

Grubs and worms are soil insects prevalent in some areas. They attack the roots of the crops. Apply soil insecticides in power or granular form for control.

Fire ants and other ants carry mealybugs. They also attack workers in the fields. These are easily killed by insecticides used for soil insects or mealybugs.

After several years of being planted to pineapple, the field could be nematode-infested. Nematodes are plants parasites that cause stunting and poor growth. For small and medium scale growers, crop rotation is the most practical and cheapest control methods. Nematicides may also be used for controlling the pest.

Butt rot and heart rot are major diseases of pineapple growers take from granted. Most commonly affected plant parts are crowns, if used for planting without proper handling and curing, the presence of standing water during the rainy season also induces butt rot on newly-planted crops. Another factor causing rotting of young pineapple crops in poor land preparation, especially with the presence of undecomposed vegetation in the soil at planting.

Another serious disease that could infect pineapple is pineapple wilt. Infected planting materials and the presence of mealybugs that are the carriers of the disease are its main causes. The symptoms of the disease could be mistaken for poor nutrients intake, such as lack of phosphorus, bud hardly noticed by the untrained farmer. Starting with only a few plants, it seriously infects 30 to 70 percent of the crops if not controlled in its early stages. A virus causes the damages. The only effective control method is to rogue out and burn plants as they show signs of the disease.

After spending in planting and in caring for the crop for up to 20 months, the pinerapple grower needs to properly survey the market in order to contact reliable wholesale buyers. Proper fruit handling from harvest field to market is also important to maintain good quality and avoid bruising and damaging fruits.

GUAPPLE PRODUCTION GUIDE

Guava has a shorter gestation period than most fruit trees. The guava tree starts flowering as early as eight months from planting the seedlings in the fields. With proper care, each tree may yield about 15 kilos of fruits during the first year. By the second year, the tree could yield 45 kilos and in succeeding years, it could produce 60 kilos or more.

Good quality fruits demands high price. The small fruits or those with scars which resulted from fruition caused by the wind during the fruits' formative stages are cheaper. There are usually made into guapple pie or into jam.

One can start with a few mother trees from which subsequent planting materials are propagated. Guavas can be propagated by seed or through marcotting and grafting.

The guava can be made fruitful throughout the year as long as it is irrigated during the summer months. The fruits responds to pruning. When the terminal buds is pinched, new branches are initiated and flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will follow. With enough nourishment, the flowers will develop into full-sized fruits.

During the first year, the young plants are fertilized soon after planting with one half kilo of 14-14-14 per tree. A month later, 15 grams of urea is applied per tree.

Eight months after planting, when the trees start to flower, 300 grams of fertilizers is applied. This is a mixture of 16-20-0 and 0-0-60, applied usually in the early part of the rainy season and then before the end of the rainy season.

In the second year, the same kind of mixture is applied, and two times yearly. This time, the dose is one kilo per tree. In succeeding year, the dose is proportionately increased.

The trees should be sprayed monthly with insecticide and fungicide, especially when they are fruiting.

To protect the fruits from fruit fly, the developing fruits are wrapped with plastic bags when they are about the size of an eggs. The fruits are sprayed before they are wrapped.

To produce big fruits, some of the young fruits should be removed from the tree. To produce fruits that will weigh about a kilo each, allow only fruits to develop in a year-old tree.

While very big fruits look impressive, many growers prefer to produce fruits that weigh 300 to 350 grams each This size seems to be the most salable in the market.

DRAGON FRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE

The variety from Vietnam have white flesh and is self compatible. There are also varieties with red flesh and yellow-fruited ones. The flowers open at night and can be used as an ornamental. The fruits are attractive bright red or pink with greenish scales or wings. The flesh is sweet, white and creamy dotted uniformly with small black seeds that has distinct flavor.

Dragon fruit grow best in rich, well-drained soil. It can tolerate drought and marginal soil condition but not water logging.

It is best to start with rooted cuttings. Obtain healthy, strong and thick cutting 1/2-1 meter long. Cure in partial shade for one week then plant in 8 x 12 inch-sized plastic bags filled with a soil mixture of equal amounts of soil, fully-decomposed manure or compost and rice hull charcoal. The cuttings are ready for transplanting after two to three months. Before transplanting, expose the cuttings under full sun for at least 2 weeks. Cutting can also be planted directly to the field but are more prone to ant damage.

Prepare mounds in raised beds 3 meters apart. Incorporate liberal amounts of compost and/or manure. Put up sturdy post 20-30 centimeters in diameter. For commercial plantation, tubular concrete posts would be best. The ideal height of the post is 1-1/2-2 meters to facilitate maintenance. On top of the post, provide a square frame about 50 centimeters wide to support the growing vines. Transplanting can be done anytime of the year. Plant 3-5 rooted cuttings around each post. Tie the cuttings on the post.

At planting, apply 1/2-1 sack of well-decomposed manure per hill. A mixture of manure and compost applied around the mound up to one meter in diameter 2-3 times a year is highly recommended.

It requires regular irrigation for better plant growth although it can tolerate drought conditions. Furrow application is recommended.

Train the main stem on the post. Prune the lateral branches, allowing only the main stems to climb. Let the elongating main stems hang on the square frame on top of the post to encourage flowering and fruiting. Maintain about 50 branches per hill. Each main branch can be allowed 1-2 secondary branches. The others should be pruned.

Weed regularly but clean culture is not essential. Only the base of the plant should be free from weeds. There are no severe insect pests and diseases although red ants could be a problem especially during the initial establishment.

Flowering starts in the second or 3rd year of crop establishment. Buds are borne near the end of the main branches with blunt ends. This takes place from June to September.

Flowers open at night until the following morning after which they wither. From flower opening to fruit maturity, it takes 45-50 days. The green fruits turn bright red or mauve with green wings contrasting beautifully from the green triangular stem. At harvest, twist the fruit lightly to detach from the stem. Fruit weight range from 300-600 grams per piece.

Initial yield can be as low as 10-12 tons per hectare depending on management. Yields of 30 tons per hectare are being obtained in established plantation.

Dragon fruit has long shelf-life. It can remain fresh for at least one week under ambient conditions. The skin tends to wrinkle and become thin with prolonged storage. Under refrigerated conditions of 15-20'C and 85-95% relative humidity, it can last for a least one month.

SINTA PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE

Papaya can produce medium size fruits with less than 2 kilos each with yellow flesh .They are sweet and firm.

Prepare the land thoroughly by repeated plowing and harrowing. Improve the drainage system to control water logging.

Soak seeds in water for 3-5 days, changing the water daily. Sow only one seed per container with coconut coir dust and garden soil as medium. Water daily, transplant seedlings after 4 weeks or when seedlings are about 20cm high.

Harden the seedlings by exposing them to full sunlight for 2 to 3 days. Slit the bottom of the plastic bag and transplant each seedling carefully. Transplant one seedling per hill at the distance of 2 meters within rows and 3 to 3 meters between rows.

The general recommendation for fertilizing papaya are the following: During planting, apply 50 grams ammonium sulfate; after 1 month apply again 50 grams ammonium sulfate per plant. After 5 months, apply 100 grams, complete fertilizer; 4 months after planting, apply 100 grams complete . Apply 100 grams complete and every two months thereafter.

Water the plants at least twice a week during the dry season to sustain flowering and fruiting. Newly transplanted seedlings need more frequent watering. During the rainy season, hill-up to improve drainage.

Control weeds, particularly around the plant. Mulch to control weeds and to conserve soil moisture.

Mites and white flies are two most common insect pests of papaya. Control it by using insecticides and remove infested leaves. Apply insecticides to control white fly infestation only when necessary.

The most destructive disease is papaya ring spot virus. The disease has no chemical control. It can be minimized by planting resistant varieties. Other disease include damping-off, bacterial crown rot and root rot. Prevent or control these diseases by planting disease-free plants, removing and destroying infected petioles and plants. Plant seeds in sterilized seedbeds and avoiding damage to trunks during cultivation.

Allow only one fruit to develop at every leaf axil. Remove all misshapen and cat-faced fruits.

Promptly harvest fruits with a tinge of yellow near the apex to avoid fruitfly problems which occurs when fruits are allowed to ripen on the plant. To harvest, twist the fruit until the stalk snaps or cut the stalk with a sharp knife.

Some reminders: Remove all infected papayas and other plants showing virus-like symptoms as source of inoculum. Do not grow plants that serve as alternative hosts. Practivce appropriate management such as weeding, fertilization and irrigation so that it will grow vigorously. Transplant papaya during dry season as there are less vectors during this period. Replant using healthy seedlings after harvesting the first cycle of fruits.

JACKFRUIT PRODUCTION GUIDE

It is an off-season fruits. The producer can remove all the flowers that appear in December and January. New flowers will come out in July or August can be harvested in November and December. To produce multiple trunks, usually six or more main branches, the main trunk is cut 50 centimeters above the ground. This is to encourage the formation of multiple branches. This open the center of the tree for better light penetration and air movement. During maturity, regular pruning is carried out to remove sprouts and diseased branches. Some of the trees are top cut higher than one meter above the ground and branches are formed spreading all around. All the big branches are potential bearers.

It needs adequate water to develop properly, especially during the first few years from planting. At the same time, it requires good drainage. During the first two years, watering should be done regularly because jack fruit is sensitive to water stress. The plants should be watered whenever a 1cm depth of the soil surface around it become dry. Water is also needed during its mature stage to promote heavy flowering and fruit set. Adequate moisture is also needed for proper fruit development and for better quality fruits.

There are instances when there is overcrowding of fruits. Some of the fruits may be harvested when they are still young and sold for vegetable purposes. When the excess fruits are thinned out, the remaining fruits will develop more properly.

While the fruit tree grows in almost all kinds of soil, high yields are obtained in well-drained, deep, alluvial soils. It is planted at a distance of either 8m x 8m or 10m x 10m The plants are either inter-crop with other fruit trees or planted as a mono crop.

It is recommended that the application of 11 kilos of chemical fertilizer per tree of bearing age annually. This amount is split into three applications. Four kilos of 9-24-24 are applied before flowering: 4 kilos of 15-15-15 after fruits setting: and 3 kilos of 8-24-24 a month before fruit maturity.

The above fertilizers are supplemented by the application of decayed animal manure at the rate of 30 to 50 kilos per tree per year. Foliar fertilizer (10-52-15), is also sprayed three times a year at a fruiting stage.

Fruit borer and fruitfly are common pests of jackfruit. The damage of these pests could be controlled by bagging the fruits individually when they are about 250 to 300 grams. Leafhopper is controlled by insecticides. The most destructive disease of jackfruit is phytophthora which attacks from the ground. The disease can be treated with fungicides.

The disease can also be minimized by wider spacing, removal of low-growing branches, regular weeding, and keeping the trees well-nourished and adequately watered.

HAIRY LYCHEE PRODUCTION GUIDE

It is known as Rambutan, Nephilium lappaceum gained much popularity and acceptance in its introduction to the country. This spiny fruit is available only during August to October and quite expensive.

You can propagate it by vegetative means and by seed. Select only fresh and healthy seeds. Before sowing, wash the seeds thoroughly and sow immediately, in seedbeds or directly in individual containers. The soil medium to be used must be sterilized in order to eliminate organisms which may attack the seeds.

It vary as to fruitfulness, quality of fruits and sex. An orchard planted by seedlings can give 65% male trees. This makes vegetative propagation more desirable than by seed.

Propagation by marcotting procedure is not advisable because when the root-bearing young plants are transplanted in the field, a large number of them die. The most prevalent method is inarching. It is relatively easy technique and success is usually very high. The main drawbacks of this technique is that it is wasteful of propagating materials and it is laborious.

A tropical tree, Rambutan thrives best in humid and hot region where rainfall is well-distributed. It is also perform well in regions with three dry months or with an average length of less than four months dry season. They are tolerant of many soil types, but it grows best in deep, loamy soil which is well-drained and rich in organic matter.

Elaborate land preparation is not necessary when only one or a few rambutan trees are to be planted. The usual practice in backyard plantings is to dig a hole large and deep enough to accomodate the root system of the planting materials. For medium to large-scale planting, the land should be thoroughly prepared. One plowing and one harrowing are usually adequate where the land has been previously under cultivation.

For sites that have not been planted, the field should be plowed as deeply as possible to loosen the soil. It may be necessary to alternately plow and harrow the field several times to obtain the desired soil tilt.

The procedure of planting rambutan is essentially the same as with other fruit trees. Trees removed from cans and other containers maybe transplanted without defoliating or cutting back the top provided care is taken that the roots are not disturbed when removing from the container. While preparing for planting, the roots should be protected and kept from drying out by wrapping them in wet burlap.

In sloping areas, contour - planting is recommended. This will prevent soil erosion and help water to stay in a single place. In level land, the seedling should be planted in a straight line.

Spacing should be done not too closely. The rambutan tree bears most of its fruits on the outside of its canopy of branches. When the side branches meet and crowd each other, the trees tend to fruit at the uppermost branches. Overcrowding reduces yield and also increases the difficulty of spraying thoroughly enough to control insect plants and disease. Rambutan can be planted 11 to 12 meters apart.

Rambutan requires plenty of water during its entire growing period. The most critical period being the first dry dry season after planting, constant watering is necessary at this stage. Conserve moisture in the soil by practicing cover-cropping and mulching.

During the first dry season, the young rambutan trees may suffer from intense heat. It should be provided temporary shade for the plants. Shade no longer necessary starting the second year.

Apply complete fertilizer of ammonium sulfate to hasten the tree growth. Supplement with animal manure and compost or other organic fertilizer.

Several insects like twig borers, mealy bugs and pad borers can attack rambutan trees. Control it by spraying with recommended insecticides. It is also susceptible to disease, the most common is ring spot. Control them with proper fungicides.

Asexually propagated rambutan trees may produce fruits three to four years after planting. Seed planted trees will take five to six or more to bear fruits.

Fruits do not ripe at the same time, pruning or picking only thus ripe one. Harvesting is done three times a week.

PAPAYA PRODUCTION GUIDE

Experience showed that papaya grows best in light and well-dried soils. It should be rich in organic matter for the plant to grow faster. There are some limitation.They do not grow well on certain clay soil which lack of good aeration and are poorly drained with water. Those papaya grown in that kind of soil become spindly and stunted, and produce less fruits during the duration of their fruiting season. Sub-soiling is necessary. Papaya will grow on any type of soil as long as this is not poorly drained or does not easily dry up during hot season.

The soil must have a good supply of available nutrients. This nutrients is important for their growth and development. Papaya can grow best on soils with pH ranging from 5.6 to 7.0.

Papaya is a tropical fruit crop. It prefers warm areas with abundant rainfall or good irrigation. An average daily temperature ranging from 21' to 33'C is ideal for robust growth. It can tolerate higher temperatures. The soil should have adequate moisture. In cool weather condition it reduces growth and yield. further, it can affect its fruit flavor. Too much coolness and humid nights can cause the fruits to mature slowly and even has low quality fruits.

In order to provide suitable soil condition, thoroughly prepared the area to be planted with papaya. Clean the field, plow and harrow alternately two or three times to kill the weeds and provides good internal drainage. Plant at distances ranging from two to three meters, depending on the variety. This is to avoid close concentration of each tree.

It can be planted by direct seeding in the field. Place five or more seeds in each hole. Cover with one fourth inch of soil. If you sow fresh seeds, it will germinate 10 to 14 days after planting. Seeds germinate better and faster by removing the gelatinous envelopes surrounding them. You can use your fingers. It can be done easily.

Do the thinning of the seedlings planted directly in the field four to six weeks after emergence. Leave only three of the strongest seedlings in each hole. Save the plants that are spaced far enough from one another. The purpose is to avoid overcrowding hampering its growth.

Do the second and final thinning in the field when flowers appear. This is usually four to six months after seed germination. At this stage, leave only three trees to the planting hole. This is the ideal thinning method.

Establish a windbreaks. It is necessary in areas where strong winds prevail. It can control damages to the full grown trees. Space the strips of windbreaks at a distance of 21 to 29 times the height of windbreaks trees. If the winds come in different directions and angles, it is necessary to have windbreaks half as close.
to the trees. A good windbreak is not necessarily a solid wall against the wind. A permeable windbreaks allows some of the air to pass through.

Application of fertilizer starts at seed planting or seedling transplanting in the field. Mix a handful (five to 10 grams) of a complete fertilizer (14-14-14) with the soil at the bottom of each hole before planting. As the papaya seedling grows larger, apply more fertilizer. Apply 60 grams of ammonium sulfate as soon as the plants are well established especially when it shows new growth. Apply the same amount at six-week intervals until the plants are one year old. Thereafter, apply 225 grams of ammonium sulfate to each plant every three months. Apply 450 grams of super phosphate per plant at the start of the rainy season each year. If this application done strictly, it can protect the plants from undergrowth that will affect its good fruiting ability.

Doing weed control by the use of mechanical and chemical means is advisable when the papaya plants are less than one-and-a-half meters in height. Use a hand weeding about one meter around the base of the trunk.

Among the most common pests are red spider mites and fruit fly. Control it with chemicals. To prevent fruit fly, harvest fruits at the mature green stage. The common disease are fruit rot, blossom-end spot. It can be controlled by spraying chemicals. Burn all infected fruits and leaves as soon as the disease is noted.

Handle the fruits properly during the harvesting period and during packing. Remove infected fruits to prevent contaminating the rest. Apply proper fungicides.

Fruits are ready for harvesting when it shows a definite yellow-orange tinge in the apex of blossom-end regions of the plant. It is advisable to pick the fruits when they are still in the firm, semi ripe state to avoid more damages. Use cottom gloves when harvesting so as to lessen thumb and fingers bruising. Harvest by twisting the fruit until its stalks snaps off the plant.